Common bra problems

Wrong size

Women often find it difficult to find the correct bra size. To achieve perfect sizing consistently, a bra would have to be custom made, because a "one-size-fits-all" manufacturing process is fraught with difficulties. Breasts vary in the position on the chest, and in their diameters.

A number of stores have certified professional bra-fitters specialists. However, even bra fitters have been shown to be quite variable in their recommendations. Buying "off-the-shelf" or "online" bras is unwise if the buyer has never tried on the brand and type of bra that they are interested in buying. Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on and learning to recognize a proper fit is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much the same as with shoes. Some critics observe that measuring systems such as the one described above often lead to an incorrect size, most commonly too small in the cup, and too large in the band. For anyone, especially cup sizes larger than a D, one should get a professional fitting from the lingerie department of a clothing store or a specialty lingerie store.

Wrong fit

Some women intentionally buy larger cups and pad them, while yet others buy smaller cups to give the appearance of being "full". Finally, the elastic properties of the band make band size highly unreliable, and in one study the label size may be different from the measured size. Fashion and image drive the bra market, and these factors often take precedence over comfort and function.

As already noted, there is no agreed standard across all manufacturers for measuring and specifying bra size. Obtaining the correct size is further complicated by the fact that the size and shape of a woman's breasts fluctuate during her menstrual cycle, and also with weight gain or loss. Even breathing can substantially alter the measurements.

Biological change

As breasts become larger, their shape and the distribution of the tissues within them changes, and becoming ptotic and bulbous rather than conical. This makes measurements increasingly unreliable, especially for large breasts. Similarly the heavier build a woman has, the more inaccurate the underbust measurement as the tape sinks into the flesh more easily. Finally, most women are asymmetrical (10% severely), with the left breast being larger in 62%, especially when the breasts are large.

Many of the health problems associated with bras are due to fitting problems. However, finding a comfortable fit is described as very difficult by many women, which has affected sales. Medical studies have also attested to the difficulty of getting a correct fit.

Tell-tale signs of a poorly fitting bra

 If you’re not sure whether your bra fits your properly, take a look at our guide to the most common bra fitting problems and see if any of these sound like you. If so, follow the advice for how to improve the fit.

Back band higher at the back

Your back band should be horizontal all the way around your body. If it goes up at the back towards your shoulder blades then it is too big and has slid up to the wider part of your back. If you have this problem, try a small back size.

Shoulder straps too tight/ digging in

If you have this problem, first try loosening the shoulder straps. If this makes your bust sag noticeably then you have been relying too much on the shoulder straps for support, which should be coming from the back band so you need to go down a back size. If you find that straps feel like they dig in even when you have the fit right, look for bra style with wider or padded shoulder straps, which will be more comfortable to wear.

Back-band too tight

You should be able to pull your back band away from your body by about two inches but no more. If it’s so tight you struggle to get it on or it feels uncomfortable or even painful then you should go up a back size.

Underwire not flat against your body

If the underwiring does not rest neatly against your body and moves out in between your bust try going up a cup size.

Underwire digs in

Your bra underwire should sit around the breast tissue and not on it at any point or dig in. If this is happening to you then you need to try a bigger cup size.

Overspill at the top of the cup

Don’t be tempted to think that your bust is supposed to spill out over the top of your bra to look sexy – the top of the cup should be flat across your bust rather than cutting in to the flesh. The ‘double boob’ effect when you’ve got a close fitting top on is a sure sign that your cup size is too small. Keep trying a cup size bigger until you find the fit that’s right for you.

Bra cups look baggy or wrinkled

The fabric of your bra cups should be smooth when your bra fits properly. If the cups are crinkled because they are not being completely filled out then try a smaller cup size. If they are puckered because they are over-stretched then you should go up a cup size instead.