Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Revolution of bras - Part I


Utility Bras 1940
Fashion history is always affected by material shortages during and immediately after wars,  In the war era after 1940, bras were made from minimal fabric when they bore the Utility mark. Utility bras were serviceable bras using broche, a cotton backed satin or drill and often peach pink in color.  Supplies were very limited and were best ordered.  Twilfit manufactured utility bras and Twilfit were a household name for roll-ons and bras in the 1950s.

Women also made their own bras from paper patterns or magazine guidelines for making bras and French knicker sets.  The fabric they used was sometimes parachute silk, parachute nylon or old satin wedding dresses.  Come the 1950s changes in textile technology saw new developments in all underwear items, but particularly in the costumes history of bras.

Latex to Dunlop's Lastex to Elastic
Although rubber had been around some time, it needed to be transformed into a textile fabric for use in clothing.  By the 30s, bra history was to change forever when Dunlop chemists were able to transform latex into reliable elastic thread in all sorts of dimensions.  The yarn was knitted or woven and eventually made into washable Lastex fabric.

Mr & Mrs Smith
Take a look at Angelina Jolie in Mr & Mrs Smith 2005 - all suited up on black latex corset / mini-dress replete with fishnet thigh-highs and a garter belt.  The latex corset sale did not pick up but the fishnet were seen on runways as wide ranging as Christian Dior and Versace.

Gossard Wonderbra 1968-1990s
Gossard Wonderbra ad
Memorable bra history was made when Gossard launched its Wonderbra campaign in 1968.  The byline went something like this - "makes 34 look 36, makes 36 look pow wow..."  It was and is still true.  Initially 36C was the top size of this revolutionary under wired bra that was a must for V-neck dress of the late sixties.  Low necked V caftans were transformed by the cleavages from a Wonderbra.  Eventually demand led to larger size being produced and is made today up to size 38D.

Those who longed for one, but were just one size too big simply bought a bra replacement fastener and used it as an extender.  They just hoped for the best and as the breasts were all pushed to the front a little pain was worth it to get the cleavage that no other bra could produce.  False inserts of extra wadding or foam rubber could be inserted into little pockets in the Wonderbra to give a little more fullness where the bust was lacking.  Eventually as women got larger, manufacturers increased the size range of such push bras.
In the 1990s when silicone breast implants and other implants caused scares, many women looked to bras to improve their breast size.  The Wonderbra was a huge hit and bestseller all over again in the 1990s.

It was and still is a magic bra, but Gossard eventually sold the rights to the name.  Gossards best alternative today is an uplift bra called the Ultrabra. 

A little history researched done on Wonderbra - although the Wonderbra name was first trademarked in the U.S. in 1935, the brand was developed in Canada. Moses (Moe) Nadler, founder and majority owner of the Canadian Lady Corset Company licensed the trademark for the Canadian market in 1939.  By the 1960s, the Canadian Lady brand had become known in Canada as "Wonderbra, the company." In 1961 the company introduced the Model 1300 plunge push-up bra. This bra became one of the best-selling Canadian styles and is virtually identical to today's Wonderbra.  In 1968 Canadian Lady changed its name to Canadian Lady-Canadelle Inc., was sold to Consolidated Foods (now Sara Lee Corporation), and later became Canadelle Inc. During the 1970s Wonderbra was repositioned as the company's fashionable and sexy brand, and became the Canadian market leader.

In 1991 the push-up Wonderbra became a sensation in the UK, although it had been sold there since 1964 under license by the Gossard division of Courtaulds Textiles.  SaraLee Corporation did not renew Gossard's license and redesigned the push-up style for the reintroduction of the Wonderbra to the U.S. market in 1994.
Since 1994, the Wonderbra has expanded from the single push-up design into a full range lingerie fashion label in most of the world.In most countries, the brand emphasizes sex-appeal.In its native Canada, the brand however promotes the functional qualities of its products - a departsure from the strategy that made Wonderbra the top-seller in the 1970s.

Bra Slips

Bra Slip
Bra slips were a sixties hit for short skimpy dresses and gave a freedom unknown before.  This strange hybrid was an under wired cleavage bra with a short mini nylon slip all in one. Tights, panties, bra slip and top dress and that were it.  Never before had women worn so little.  What would Victorian and Edwardian matrons have made of it all? In the early 21st century the bra slip made a re-appearance in stores such as Marks and Spencer.

The Return of Cleavage - 1990s
Madonna
Madonna sported ice cream coned circular stitched cups on her Gaultier corset on stage in her 'Blonde Ambition' tour.  Nothing shocked anyone anymore.  Gaultier first did designs based on the conical breast in the 1980s, but it took Madonna to approve the style in the 1990s.  Sexy lace bras came back into the shops.  La Senza, La Perla, Rigby and Peller, Triumph, Lejaby, Victoria's Secret and even Marks & Spencer sold delectable lace bra confections and exquisite matching briefs or thongs. Now of course the Madonna images of her in her coned bra look horribly dated. 
Very plain Tactel underwear slips introduced in the 90s gave such a good line beneath dresses making it at last possible to wear unlined dresses successfully without static build up.
By the mid 90s there were usually only 2 styles of full length all in one corselette girdles at Marks & Spencer. This is an important fact in the UK as Marks & Spencer is a major retailer of undergarments of all types.  The women who shed their bras in the sixties were occasionally seeking a bit more figure control for the straighter sheath dresses back in fashion.  The other option many opted for were Lycra support panties that lifted the bottom or tights with control panels. 
By the end of the 90s the UK bra market alone was worth half a billion pounds.  Another billion was spent on other foundation underwear. 

Bioform Bras - The First Miracle of the Millennium 2000 
With so much capital income possible, it's little wonder then, that Charnos decided to invest heavily in designing a new uplift bra suited to all sizes, but with those with fuller cup sizes in mind.  G cups are included rather than ignored. After research and development was complete they took the plunge and in 2000 they launched the Bioform Bra. 
The Bioform Bra uplifts and contours the breasts so well that it immediately takes ten years off a sideways sagging bust.  If you are past 40 with a full cup size you may realize that you have not seen your breasts in this position for twenty years.  It has an effect that centers the breasts more, whilst uplifting them at the same time.  And it does it up to size 42DD with many smaller sizes going up to G cups.  Probably its greatest achievement is to successfully lift large breasts and make them look more youthful.

The Bioform Bra is helpful for giving a more youthful shape to women who have had trouble getting good uplift before.  To be honest when you put the bra on, it seems to look much like any other, but once you put clothes on top of it you realize the bust silhouette is younger and sexier.  It does take a few days to get used to wearing one and they do not suit everyone.  The sides are quite firm pre molded plastic materials that replace under wires, so the harder feel at the sides of it is different.  It takes a few days to get used to the change of support.  One way of coping with this is to get used to the bra by wearing it on alternate days for a while. 
Wearers who find that shoulder straps normally cut into their flesh will soon notice that the redistribution of breast weight means that unsightly and uncomfortable shoulder welts from strap marks just don't happen.

On the negative side there were only ever a few fabric versions.  The original lace fabric used was not the most eyes catching either, due to technical production process.  To be fair the unfussy fabric did give a smooth tailored outline.  However in 2002 more eye catching attractive, sexier lacy versions were put in the shops and when compared to the original version were much prettier. However due to the change of circumstances at Charnos these bras are hard to get other than via the internet. The bra was designed by two well respected male product design engineers but the cost of putting this bra into production was so great that Charnos sold out a couple of years later. 

After Charnos was bought out the organization restructured, the Bioform bra has sadly been in demise in stores within the UK.  In the UK, one should go to Figleaves for a great selection of bras, lingerie and money off bargains. If you join their email list service you can get regular updates of wide range bras on offer.  Simply great when you know your size and are confident with a particular style.  Figleaves has been as successful as an online venture that it ranks as UK online retailer of the year.

Stay tune to part II of The Revolution of Bras
Quote: The only courage you ever need is the courage to live your heart’s desire.” - Oprah Winfrey

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