G Source

Common bra problems

2011-10-13T03:39:00.001-07:00

Wrong size

Womenoften find it difficult to find the correct bra size. To achieve perfect sizingconsistently, a bra would have to be custom made, because a"one-size-fits-all" manufacturing process is fraught withdifficulties. Breasts vary in the position on the chest, and in theirdiameters.

A numberof stores have certified professional bra-fitters specialists. However, evenbra fitters have been shown to be quite variable in their recommendations.Buying "off-the-shelf" or "online" bras is unwise if thebuyer has never tried on the brand and type of bra that they are interested inbuying. Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on andlearning to recognize a proper fit is the best way to determine a correct brasize, much the same as with shoes. Some critics observe that measuring systems such as theone described above often lead to an incorrect size, most commonly too small inthe cup, and too large in the band. For anyone, especially cup sizes largerthan a D, one should get a professional fitting from the lingerie department ofa clothing store or a specialty lingerie store.

Wrong fit

Some womenintentionally buy larger cups and pad them, while yet others buy smaller cupsto give the appearance of being "full". Finally, the elastic propertiesof the band make band size highly unreliable, and in one study the label size maybe different from the measured size. Fashion and image drive the bra market,and these factors often take precedence over comfort and function.

As alreadynoted, there is no agreed standard across all manufacturers for measuring andspecifying bra size. Obtaining the correct size is further complicated by thefact that the size and shape of a woman's breasts fluctuate during her menstrualcycle, and also with weightgain or loss. Even breathing can substantially alter the measurements.

Biological change

As breastsbecome larger, their shape and the distribution of the tissues within themchanges, and becoming ptotic and bulbous rather than conical. Thismakes measurements increasingly unreliable, especially for large breasts.Similarly the heavier build a woman has, the more inaccurate the underbustmeasurement as the tape sinks into the flesh more easily. Finally, most womenare asymmetrical (10% severely), with the left breast being larger in 62%,especially when the breasts are large.

Many ofthe health problems associated with bras are due to fitting problems. However,finding a comfortable fit is described as very difficult by many women, whichhas affected sales. Medical studies have also attested to the difficulty ofgetting a correct fit.

Tell-tale signs of a poorly fitting bra

If you’re not sure whether your bra fits your properly, take alook at our guide to the most common bra fitting problems and see if any ofthese sound like you. If so, follow the advice for how to improve the fit.

Back band higher at the back

Your back band should be horizontal all the way around your body. If itgoes up at the back towards your shoulder blades then it is too big and hasslid up to the wider part of your back. If you have this problem, try a smallback size.

Shoulder straps too tight/ digging in

If you have this problem, first try loosening the shoulder straps. Ifthis makes your bust sag noticeably then you have been relying too much on theshoulder straps for support, which should be coming from the back band so youneed to go down a back size. If you find that straps feel like they dig in evenwhen you have the fit right, look for bra style with wider or padded shoulderstraps, which will be more comfortable to wear.

Back-band too tight

You should be able to pull your back band away from your body by abouttwo inches but no more. If it’s so tight you struggle to get it on or it feelsuncomfortable or even painful then you should go up a back size.

Underwire not flat against your body

If the underwiring does not rest neatly against your body and moves outin between your bust try going up a cup size.

Underwire digs in

Your bra underwire should sit around the breast tissue and not on it atany point or dig in. If this is happening to you then you need to try a biggercup size.

Overspill at the top of the cup

Don’t be tempted to think that your bust is supposed to spill out overthe top of your bra to look sexy – the top of the cup should be flat acrossyour bust rather than cutting in to the flesh. The ‘double boob’ effect whenyou’ve got a close fitting top on is a sure sign that your cup size is toosmall. Keep trying a cup size bigger until you find the fit that’s right foryou.

Bra cups look baggy or wrinkled

The fabric of your bra cups should be smooth when your bra fits properly.If the cups are crinkled because they are not being completely filled out thentry a smaller cup size. If they are puckered because they are over-stretchedthen you should go up a cup size instead.

How to measure bra

2011-09-16T20:41:00.000-07:00

Fitting aBra

Wearing abra that fits is much better for your breast health. It is frequently stated,from the results of surveys that between 70 and 100% of women wear incorrectlyfitted bras. This may be partly due to a lack of understanding of how tocorrectly determine bra size; it may also be due to unusual or unexpectedlyrapid growth in size brought on by pregnancy, weight gain, or medicalconditions including virginal breast hypertrophy.

Althoughall bras are labeled by size, many women find that the only way to obtain a brathat fits properly and achieves the effect they want is by trying a bra on witheach bra type, model and brand.

Thoughmany countries use the metric system, the majority of nations stilluse imperialunits to determine the under band size of the bra itself.

There areseveral methods which may be used to provide an approximate size by takingmeasurements. However, bra sizing systems differ widely between countries,between manufacturers, and between brands and designs, which can create many problems. Many researchers have demonstrated that theseproblems arise because fit requires knowing the breast volume, not the bodycircumference (the distance around the body), which is what is actuallymeasured. Although bra sizing uses the circumference to estimate the volume,this has been shown to be highly unreliable.

The sizeof a bra is commonly described by two values. The first is the band size(under band), a number based on the circumference of the chest under the bust,excluding the breasts. The second is the cup size given by a letter ofthe alphabet, and relating to the volume of the breasts themselves. Forexample, a 30D bra has a 30-size band and a D-size cup. Cup sizes typicallystart with AA, the smallest, and increase alphabetically. Double or triplelettering systems are also used, e.g. DDD for F or AA for a size smaller thanA.

To providewomen with better fitting bras, manufacturer Playtex recently introduced arange of half-sizes between cup sizes A and D. These half sizes are denoted byfractions, so that Playtex now provides bras in A, A¹⁄₂,B, B¹⁄₂, C, C¹⁄₂, and D cups.

Band sizeis usually determined by measuring body circumference under the breasts astight as possible. A second measurement is a loose fit taken of the chestcircumference over the fullest part of the breasts (overbust). The cupsize can then be calculated with tables or a conversion tool from thedifference between these two measurements.

The meanunderband circumference in the UKis 34 inches (86 cm). For the overbust measurement, this is 40 inches (101 cm),for women 18–64 years.

Followthese four easy steps to ensure you are shopping for the right bra size:

Measurementnumber 1:Measure under your bust line.

Put onyour best-fitting, unpadded, under wire bra. Measure underneath the bust lineand make sure to measure tightly. Be sure the tape measure is straight acrossyour back.

Thegeneral rule of thumb for all measuring is: less than ½”, round DOWN, more thana ½”, round UP. So if your measurement is 32 ¼”, call it 32. Write this numberdown. This is measurement number 1.

Band Size:Calculateyour band size.

Ifmeasurement 1 is UNDER 33 inches, add 5 inches. If this number is odd, round upto the next EVEN number. If measurement 1 is OVER 33 inches, add 3 inches. Ifthis number is odd, round up to the next EVEN number. Write this EVEN numberdown. This is your band size.

Measurementnumber 2: Measureover the bust line

Measureover the biggest point of your bust line. This is a looser measurement. Makesure the tape measure is straight. Write this number down. This is measurementnumber 2.

Cup Size: Calculateyour cup size.

First subtractmeasurement number 1 from measurement number 2. Then consult the followingchart to find your cup size.

The back strap (under band) and cups should provide most ofthe support rather than the shoulder straps, which are responsible for a numberof health problems.

Whenviewed from the side, the under band that runs around the body should behorizontal, should not ride up the back, and should be firm butcomfortable. The underwires at the frontshould lie flat against the rib cage (not the breast), along the infra-mammaryfold, and should not dig in to the chest or the breasts, rub or poke out at thefront. The breasts should be enclosed by the cups and there should be a smoothline where the fabric at the top of the cup ends. There should not be a ridge or any bulgingover the top or sides of the cups, even with a low-cut style such as the demibra.

A pair ofbreasts can weigh several kilograms. For instance a pair of "D cup"breasts may weigh three to four pounds, dependent on band and cup size. One ofthe principal functions of a bra is to elevate and "support" thebreasts, that is, to raise them from their normal position lying against thechest wall. The bra's shoulder strap should bear little weight. This isconsidered the defining characteristic of the bra: supporting the weight fromthe back and shoulders, as opposed to lift from below (as corsets do). Over-relianceon the platform (back strap) for support will lead to undue compression of the breasts;so much of the weight tends to be carried by the shoulder strap, particularlyfor larger breasts. The major engineering weakness of the bra is that it actsas a pulley, transferring the weight of the breast from the lower chest wall tohigher structures such as the back, shoulder, neck, and head. This can resultin pain and injury in those structures, especially for women with pendulousbreasts.

Quote: The only courage you ever need is the courage to live your heart's desire - Oprah Winfrey

Revolution of bra - Part II (Emergence of various categories)

2011-08-26T00:07:00.000-07:00

The Ultimo Bra - May 2000

By the time of the second millennium women were adding inserts to their bras called affectionately chicken fillets. However, help was soon at hand with the development of the Ultimo bra, a silicone gel filled bra that creates cleavage whilst giving comfort. It was launched in May 2000 and became a must have accessory for those in need of a boost. It has enhanced some of the most famous breasts in the world today including those of Julia Roberts and Kylie Minogue.

The Ultimo was invented by a British woman from Glasgow called Michelle Mone. It took three and a half years to develop the Ultimo and a great deal of hard work and tenacity on Michelle's part. Unlike normal padded bras the silicone makes the bra feel real so the inserts move and feel like real breasts in wear without the bra squelching the breasts into unnatural positions.

Ultimo select fabrics and components of the highest quality such as polyamide microfiber which is finer than silk and so soft to the touch. They also use a patented liquid silicone gel which has the ability to mimic breast tissue, resulting in a comfortable mould to create a super cleavage. So effective is the bra that people often believe wearers have had breast implants.

Other various types of bra may be classified as:

Adhesive - a bra which adheres to the breasts; features no straps or bands of any sort. This type of bra is intended for backless and strapless fashions.
Average Figure Bra - just what it sounds like. The average figure bra is generally worn by women with average figures; the B and C cup sizes.
Bandeau - a simple band of cloth worn across the breasts, providing little support or shaping.
Belly Dance Bras - No matter what style of belly dance you may be studying, you will definitely want a beautiful belly dance bra. Guaranteed to improve your chest rolls.
Bridal Bras - Support for all that cake cutting.
Built-in bras - sometimes known as shelf bras (not to be confused with the shelf-bra described below), are a supportive brassiere-like structure on the inside of another garment, such as a swimsuit or tank top, which provides support for the bust without the need for a separate bra. In most such garments, these consist of a horizontal elastic strip, although some do have cups and underwires as with other bra types. These are easily removed, if desired.
Bullet bras - are a type of full-support bra with cups in the shape of a paraboloid of revolution with its axis perpendicular to the breast. Bullet bras were invented in the late-1940s.
Convertible bras - have straps which may be detached and rearranged in different ways depending on the outfit. Alternatives to regular straps for strapless bras are beaded bra straps or clear plastic bra straps that provide support and style. This bra is designed with fashion versatility in mind. It can convert from a conventional bra to a strapless, halter, backless, and sometimes even a t-back bra to meet your fashion needs.
Cupless bras - (also open cup bras; cf. shelf bras below) is a brassiere frame with no support cups, or which exposes the nipples with notched or contoured support cups. Usually worn as erotic lingerie, a cupless bra can cause the shape of the nipples to be prominently visible on an outer garment.
Demi bras - also known as balconette bras, a half-cup bra style, with wide-set straps and horizontal bust line. Often seamed or boned, it gives great cleavage and a frame-like effect. These offer less support, but enable low cut garments to be worn without the bra being seen. Demi bras may be designed to provide lift as a push-up bra does.
Full Figure Bra - If you are a large breasted woman, you will want a full figured bra. Full figure bras offer proper fit and comfort for larger sizes and designed to offer good support for the whole of the breasts and, as such, are a typical, practical bra for everyday wear.
Gel bra - consist of two molded, silicon gel filled cups that have a reusable adhesive on the inside of the cups and are designed to clip together to draw the breasts together and upwards without straps or a band.
Leather Bras - If you like leather, the leather bra is one more way to get your fix.
Hand bra - is a modeling technique wherein the woman, though topless, conceals her areolae by covering both breasts with her hands.
Mastectomy bras - are designed for mastectomy needs so that a prosthesis may be held in place and are intended for individuals who have lost one or both breasts in the treatment for breast cancer.
Male bras - are bras worn by men with Gynecomastia, usually to flatten and conceal rather than lift and support.
Maternity bras - are designed such that they can be expanded to adjust as the breasts growth in size over the course of pregnancy. Maternity bra may also refer to nursing bras.
Minimizer bras - are designed to de-emphasize the bust, in particular of large-breasted women (34 C or above). Minimizers, by compressing and shaping the breasts, help to create the illusion of being a cup size or two smaller.
Name Brand Bra -some people only want brand names and you know who you are. Brand loyalty is an important aspect of the bra industry. Once you find a great fitting bra, you will want to be able to get more from the same manufacturer.
Novelty bras - designed more for show, and sensuality than function. Include unusual materials, such as leather, or design such as Peephole bras, which have cups which loosely cover the breasts, but include holes around the nipples.
Nursing bras - are designed to help make breastfeeding simpler by allowing for easy access to the nipple. Traditionally, nursing bras are made with flaps of fabric over the cup which can be unclasped and pulled down to access the breast. Perfect for any breastfeeding mom.
Padded bras - are simply bras with padding inside the lining. They are designed to provide a fuller shape for small breasts and an alternative to bra stuffing, a practice among teen-aged girls in which tissues, sugar packets, cotton balls, or socks are placed inside a bra to simulate larger breasts. Unlike push-up bras, however, most padded bras support the breasts but do not significantly lift them. (see also Water bras)
Push-up bras - are structured so that the breasts are lifted and placed closer together to enhance the cleavage. The best known brand of push-up bra is the Wonderbra. Many push-up bras contain padding, typically made of foam or rubber, but some contain gel-filled pads. The main distinction between padded bras and push-up bras that incorporate padding is whether the padding is centered under each breast to simply lift them, or whether the padding is centered outside the centre of each breast such that it pushes the breasts inwards.
Shelf bras - essentially a rigid band (underwired) along the inframamary line that pushes up without actually covering any, or only a thin strip of the breast.
Sport Bras - provide firm support for the breasts, and are meant to prevent discomfort or embarrassment during vigorous exercise or any physical activity, You shouldn’t even consider doing sports of any kind without one!
Strapless bras - with no shoulder straps, primarily designed for wearing with clothes that reveal the shoulders, such as halter neck tops, evening wear, strapless evening gowns and tops.
Teen Bra - the right bra for beginners and their changing bodies. These are generally the AA and A cup sizes.
T-shirt bras - are designed without raised seams, so that a tight t-shirt may be worn without the bra being visible. It is soft and smooth and looks great under casual attire.
Trainer bras - are designed for girls who have begun to develop breasts but have yet to be considered "developed" enough to allow for a standard-sized bra to fit properly. They are of simple construction and offer little, if any, support.
Vintage Bra - You might be seeking the cone shaped, pointy bras from the 40's, or maybe a corset or bustier is more your style. Vintage bras have become popular in modern times but are just as restrictive!
Water bras - were a vogue, in which bras were padded with a water gel. Air bras were a similar concept.

Underwire Bra - Underwire bras or wire bras give you a "lift'.

Quote: We are rich only through what we give, and poor only through what we refuse - Anne-Sophie Swetchine

Revolution of bras - Part I

2011-08-24T03:02:00.000-07:00

Utility Bras 1940
Fashion history is always affected by material shortages during and immediately after wars, In the war era after 1940, bras were made from minimal fabric when they bore the Utility mark. Utility bras were serviceable bras using broche, a cotton backed satin or drill and often peach pink in color. Supplies were very limited and were best ordered. Twilfit manufactured utility bras and Twilfit were a household name for roll-ons and bras in the 1950s.

Women also made their own bras from paper patterns or magazine guidelines for making bras and French knicker sets. The fabric they used was sometimes parachute silk, parachute nylon or old satin wedding dresses. Come the 1950s changes in textile technology saw new developments in all underwear items, but particularly in the costumes history of bras.

Latex to Dunlop's Lastex to Elastic
Although rubber had been around some time, it needed to be transformed into a textile fabric for use in clothing. By the 30s, bra history was to change forever when Dunlop chemists were able to transform latex into reliable elastic thread in all sorts of dimensions. The yarn was knitted or woven and eventually made into washable Lastex fabric.

Mr & Mrs Smith

Take a look at Angelina Jolie in Mr & Mrs Smith 2005 - all suited up on black latex corset / mini-dress replete with fishnet thigh-highs and a garter belt. The latex corset sale did not pick up but the fishnet were seen on runways as wide ranging as Christian Dior and Versace.

Gossard Wonderbra 1968-1990s

Gossard Wonderbra ad

Memorable bra history was made when Gossard launched its Wonderbra campaign in 1968. The byline went something like this - "makes 34 look 36, makes 36 look pow wow..." It was and is still true. Initially 36C was the top size of this revolutionary under wired bra that was a must for V-neck dress of the late sixties. Low necked V caftans were transformed by the cleavages from a Wonderbra. Eventually demand led to larger size being produced and is made today up to size 38D.

Those who longed for one, but were just one size too big simply bought a bra replacement fastener and used it as an extender. They just hoped for the best and as the breasts were all pushed to the front a little pain was worth it to get the cleavage that no other bra could produce. False inserts of extra wadding or foam rubber could be inserted into little pockets in the Wonderbra to give a little more fullness where the bust was lacking. Eventually as women got larger, manufacturers increased the size range of such push bras.

In the 1990s when silicone breast implants and other implants caused scares, many women looked to bras to improve their breast size. The Wonderbra was a huge hit and bestseller all over again in the 1990s.

It was and still is a magic bra, but Gossard eventually sold the rights to the name. Gossards best alternative today is an uplift bra called the Ultrabra.

A little history researched done on Wonderbra - although the Wonderbra name was first trademarked in the U.S. in 1935, the brand was developed in Canada. Moses (Moe) Nadler, founder and majority owner of the Canadian Lady Corset Company licensed the trademark for the Canadian market in 1939. By the 1960s, the Canadian Lady brand had become known in Canada as "Wonderbra, the company." In 1961 the company introduced the Model 1300 plunge push-up bra. This bra became one of the best-selling Canadian styles and is virtually identical to today's Wonderbra. In 1968 Canadian Lady changed its name to Canadian Lady-Canadelle Inc., was sold to Consolidated Foods (now Sara Lee Corporation), and later became Canadelle Inc. During the 1970s Wonderbra was repositioned as the company's fashionable and sexy brand, and became the Canadian market leader.

In 1991 the push-up Wonderbra became a sensation in the UK, although it had been sold there since 1964 under license by the Gossard division of Courtaulds Textiles. SaraLee Corporation did not renew Gossard's license and redesigned the push-up style for the reintroduction of the Wonderbra to the U.S. market in 1994.

Since 1994, the Wonderbra has expanded from the single push-up design into a full range lingerie fashion label in most of the world.In most countries, the brand emphasizes sex-appeal.In its native Canada, the brand however promotes the functional qualities of its products - a departsure from the strategy that made Wonderbra the top-seller in the 1970s.

Bra Slips

Bra Slip

Bra slips were a sixties hit for short skimpy dresses and gave a freedom unknown before. This strange hybrid was an under wired cleavage bra with a short mini nylon slip all in one. Tights, panties, bra slip and top dress and that were it. Never before had women worn so little. What would Victorian and Edwardian matrons have made of it all? In the early 21^st century the bra slip made a re-appearance in stores such as Marks and Spencer.

The Return of Cleavage - 1990s

Madonna

Madonna sported ice cream coned circular stitched cups on her Gaultier corset on stage in her 'Blonde Ambition' tour. Nothing shocked anyone anymore. Gaultier first did designs based on the conical breast in the 1980s, but it took Madonna to approve the style in the 1990s. Sexy lace bras came back into the shops. La Senza, La Perla, Rigby and Peller, Triumph, Lejaby, Victoria's Secret and even Marks & Spencer sold delectable lace bra confections and exquisite matching briefs or thongs. Now of course the Madonna images of her in her coned bra look horribly dated.

Very plain Tactel underwear slips introduced in the 90s gave such a good line beneath dresses making it at last possible to wear unlined dresses successfully without static build up.

By the mid 90s there were usually only 2 styles of full length all in one corselette girdles at Marks & Spencer. This is an important fact in the UK as Marks & Spencer is a major retailer of undergarments of all types. The women who shed their bras in the sixties were occasionally seeking a bit more figure control for the straighter sheath dresses back in fashion. The other option many opted for were Lycra support panties that lifted the bottom or tights with control panels.

By the end of the 90s the UK bra market alone was worth half a billion pounds. Another billion was spent on other foundation underwear.

Bioform Bras - The First Miracle of the Millennium 2000
With so much capital income possible, it's little wonder then, that Charnos decided to invest heavily in designing a new uplift bra suited to all sizes, but with those with fuller cup sizes in mind. G cups are included rather than ignored. After research and development was complete they took the plunge and in 2000 they launched the Bioform Bra.

The Bioform Bra uplifts and contours the breasts so well that it immediately takes ten years off a sideways sagging bust. If you are past 40 with a full cup size you may realize that you have not seen your breasts in this position for twenty years. It has an effect that centers the breasts more, whilst uplifting them at the same time. And it does it up to size 42DD with many smaller sizes going up to G cups. Probably its greatest achievement is to successfully lift large breasts and make them look more youthful.

The Bioform Bra is helpful for giving a more youthful shape to women who have had trouble getting good uplift before. To be honest when you put the bra on, it seems to look much like any other, but once you put clothes on top of it you realize the bust silhouette is younger and sexier. It does take a few days to get used to wearing one and they do not suit everyone. The sides are quite firm pre molded plastic materials that replace under wires, so the harder feel at the sides of it is different. It takes a few days to get used to the change of support. One way of coping with this is to get used to the bra by wearing it on alternate days for a while.

Wearers who find that shoulder straps normally cut into their flesh will soon notice that the redistribution of breast weight means that unsightly and uncomfortable shoulder welts from strap marks just don't happen.

On the negative side there were only ever a few fabric versions. The original lace fabric used was not the most eyes catching either, due to technical production process. To be fair the unfussy fabric did give a smooth tailored outline. However in 2002 more eye catching attractive, sexier lacy versions were put in the shops and when compared to the original version were much prettier. However due to the change of circumstances at Charnos these bras are hard to get other than via the internet. The bra was designed by two well respected male product design engineers but the cost of putting this bra into production was so great that Charnos sold out a couple of years later.

After Charnos was bought out the organization restructured, the Bioform bra has sadly been in demise in stores within the UK. In the UK, one should go to Figleaves for a great selection of bras, lingerie and money off bargains. If you join their email list service you can get regular updates of wide range bras on offer. Simply great when you know your size and are confident with a particular style. Figleaves has been as successful as an online venture that it ranks as UK online retailer of the year.

Stay tune to part II of The Revolution of Bras
Quote: The only courage you ever need is the courage to live your heart’s desire.” - Oprah Winfrey

Bra, in the ever changing fashion industry

2011-08-22T01:27:00.000-07:00

Bra fashion history began as far back as Cretan times, but 1907, was the year when the word brassiere was first reported in an American copy of Vogue.

In her bra history book 'Bras', Rosemary Hawthorne tells of her collection of brassières and of one that is stamped ' Brassiere. Model 441, British Made ', then of another 2-3 years older marked 'LA CYBELE' (No 18 British Made)'. By 1915 the magazine 'The Lady' recorded pretty bust bodices or brassieres as essential wear. Rosemary Hawthorne's bra history book is very informative and she often describes genuine examples of bras, corsets and girdles she has collected or has had donated to her.

Did movie industry really have any influence in the bra fashion and biz?

Joan Crawford in
Our Dancing Daughers

The 1928 musical Our Dancing Daughters featured Joan Crawford dance her way through in a little more than a very feminine bra and saucy costume. It was risqué, but no one was complaining. Tarts were ruling Tinseltown and everyone was cheering.

Fay Wray in King Kong

With the nation in the grip of a paralyzing Depression, Americans sought escape in movie theaters in the form of the 1933 classic King Kong. The filmmakers had the hairy beast striped Fay Wray down to her lingerie. Although this was just an excuse to show the actress in scanty garb but the result was overwhelming. Lacy slips became the fashionable undergarment. Bras did not decline in popularity; they just got a new companion!

Jane Russell in The Outlaw

In 1943, Howard Hughes, the famous part-time filmmaker tycoon and genuine lover of cleavage, incorporated his aerodynamic know-how into the cantilevered bra Jane Russell wore in the movie The Outlaw, allowing the lift to be higher than ever thought possible – so much so that her bosoms appeared to defy gravity!

Taylor in slip

The popularity of Elizabeth Taylor was so immense at the time of the release of her film Butterfield 8 in 1960 which she wore a slinky slip in one scene, the bra sales dramatically slipped for two years as women opted to wear slips instead, just as the purple-eyed icon had done in the movie.

Demi Moore

The most recent wave hit by Demi Moore on Striptease 1996, putting strippers on pedestal. Suddenly the occupation became not just acceptable but glamorous. In real life, young women idolized the stripper look and they were soon buying the same bras and lingerie.

The world has been reminding that a woman’s sexuality was a powerful weapon when Julia Roberts slinked through the tense drama Erin Brockovich 2000 with her signature look throughout the film, the push-up bra that was so effective, the demand for cleavage-enhancing bras became so enormous that Victoria’s Secret invented its Angel bra, and the Wonderbra Company saw sales spike.

White lingerie, which had for decades been thought of as pure and virginal, suddenly seemed kinky when Carmen Electra appeared in Scary Movie 2000 wearing a bra and underwear soaked by sprinklers. This led to a big box-office with college students for white lingerie.

Quote: The years teach us patience - that the shorter our time, the greater the capacity for waiting - Elizabeth Taylor

The evolution of bra - Part II (The Chronology)

2011-08-18T20:11:00.000-07:00

In 1863, Luman L Chapman patented a corset substitute with breast puffs and shoulder-brace straps that tied in back. The first bra was born.

Most of the major designers of the era have tried to lay claim to designing the first bra. Poiret probably had the strongest claim. What is certain is that all the designers promoted a simple breast retaining garment as better for the newer simple straight dress styles.

Illustration on the left is referred to a Reform Bodice Bra. This is the early supposedly healthier Reform Bodice Bra with mesh net cups that gave virtually no support.

In 1889, Corset whiz Herminie Cadolle put together the very first bra that resembles those worn today. Instead of strapping a contraption around the midsection, Cadolle thought it would be better to use straps around the shoulders because doing so would reduce the stress on the stomach.

In 1893, Frenchwoman Marie Tucek (or Tucke) patented the “Breast Supporter” – the first garment similar to the modern-day bra that used shoulder straps with a hook-and-eye closure to support the breasts in pockets of fabric.

In 1904, the Charles R. DeBevoise Company first labeled a woman's bra-like garment a 'brassiere'. It was a actually a lightly boned camisole that helped stabilize the breasts

Corset substitute with breast puffs 1863

Brassiere 1904

In the costume history of bras these early bras were similar to camisoles tops of the 1980s and 1990s. Initially at the turn of the 20^th century even the word camisole was used too, but replaced by 'Bust Bodice' by 1905.

Wrap around camisole style bra

By 1907, the term “brassiere” began to show up in high-profile women's magazines like Vogue especially in America and eventually, around 1912, “brassiere” appeared in the Oxford English Dictionary.

In 1913, New York socialite Mary Phelps Jacob created Mary’s Secret, her own corset replacement out of two silk handkerchiefs tied together with baby ribbon sewn on to make straps and a seam set in the center front.

Phelps

Her friends were sold on this innovative idea and her backless brassiere was patented in 1914 by Mary under the name of Caress Crosby. It is not thought to be the first bra ever, but it is the first patented record and that gives her the credit. Mary could not get much interest for her idea and sales were minimal, within a short period of time, she sold her patent to Warner Brothers Corset Company for $1,500. Within a year, breasts were measured in inches rather than being categorized small, medium or large. Today, Warner Brothers is a leading name brand manufacturer of bras.

Meanwhile, the corset sang its swan song in 1914 when World War 1 loomed large and women had to enter the workforce, where the tight nuisances were deem too restrictive for such laborious duties as sweeping floors and assembling bombs. In 1917, the government got involved, asking the gentler gender to eschew corsets altogether because they used up too much precious metal – metal that was badly in need of to make tanks and fighter planes. Women consented and 28,00 tons of metal were save in a year – enough to build tow battleships, can you believe it?

By 1928, Russian-born entrepreneur Ida Rosenthal took the bra to its next stage by introducing cup sizes and bras for all stages of a women's life. She and her husband William started making bras through their New Jersey-based company Maidenform.

The Bra history took on a new dimension when in 1935, Warners introduced four cup sizes called A, B, C and D, but it was well into the 1950s before Britain followed this American standard. The British corset manufacturers were still using coy descriptions like junior and medium to describe breast fullness. Bosoms were dethroned and separate breasts were really acknowledged.

After 1930 all the brand names we know well in lingerie and corsetry today began manufacturing bras with quite separate cups. They used quality cotton lace and net. One famous bra designed in the 1930s was the Kestos bra and later the Kestos Utility Bra. Its simple seaming looks classy and could be effective today.

In 1947, Frederick Mellinger, founder of the Frederick's of Hollywood, began selling intimate apparel in his Los Angeles stores.

In 1949, Maidenform introduced its famous 'I dreamed' ad campaign. Advertising Age named the 'I dreamed' ads No.28 of the top 100 most memorable advertising campaigns of the 20th century! The earliest ads were drawings of women that were wearing just a bra above the waist in a variety of dream sequences. Tag lines included such greats as, 'I was an Eskimo in my Maidenform bra' and to the updated versions from the late 60s like, 'I dreamed I had the world on a string in my Maidenform bra'.

Fashion history has shown that by the 1950s glamour was what women wanted most. They had been deprived in the war and they had seen the Hollywood stars that had uplift that almost reached their necks. Brand names like Maidenform, Berlei, Triumph and the British Marks & Spencer bras under the St. Michael label all sold excellent bras that gave the correct pointed circular stitched conical shape of the era.

1950's stitched longline cone bra

The conical bra was the bra that gave the support silhouette for girls who longed to emulate the curves of film star sweater girls like Lana Turner and Jane Russell. Bra history changed for the better as bras began to be revolutionized by the use of nylon, making them lighter, prettier and easier to wash. Right - 1950's Stitched Longline Cone Bra.

By 1959, Warners and Dupont had produced Lycra, the renowned stretchy fabric. The result was the true appreciation for jiggle decrease! However by the late 60s, women were burning their bras. When Yves St. Laurent designed a sheer blouse worn without a bra, feminists demanded women burn their bras. It was all metaphoric and only a dustbin was ever used to dispose of bras. In fact, one such bra burning was staged near the Miss America pageant in Atlantic City, New Jersey in 1968. However this claim has gone down in bra history despite the fact that so few women really abandoned their bras. Those who needed support knew they could never seriously do without a bra. But many smaller breasted women did stop wearing bras beneath opaque garments. Few were really brave enough to do it with a sheer top, but it did herald changes for the decade.

By the 1960s well designed bras by Exquisite Form, Berlei, Twilfit, Lovable, Silhouette, Playtex and the Marks & Spencer St. Michael range were thought ideal under knitted sweater dresses.

Berlei Bra of 1965

Soon Elastomerics transformed foundation garments with power net fabric. Early styling found in bra history became out of tune with modern sixties bra design. The old elastic bra backs and straps were replaced by the newer Courtauld's Spanzelle or Lycra fittings. Overstretched rotted rubber bits that made bras lose their grip were gone forever.

By 1964 Rudi Gernreich designed the 'no bra bra' which was light, made of see through stretch netting and very simply shaped, but only really suitable for the small breasted woman. But from this, the idea of a body stocking in transparent material was developed by Warners in 1965.

The concept simply fitted in with the woman of the 1960s wanting to choose what she did, rather than be told she must wear a bra. Old habits were changing. Many older women had worn bras to bed believing breasts should be supported during sleep, now bras were removed at night or abandoned altogether as attitudes changed.

Corsets such as those by Spirella were still worn and were still available. Longline bras to the waist from Marks & Spencer were very popular to keep that midriff in control. Re-designing the body contours in the gym was rather unusual then. To control wayward lumps and bumps one dieted and bought the correct power elastic foundation garments.

In the 60s many bras like those by Lovable had a very fine layer of foam latex rubber bonded to the top lace fabric and which made the cups stand up on end. They were comfortable bras that gave a good reliable rather pointed firm shape fashionable at the time.

Ah-a Bra 1972

The 1970s saw the development of the Ah-h Bra (1972) from Sears, and the sports bra in 1977 created by Lisa Lindahl and Polly Smith who sewed two jockstraps together and named it the Jogbra!

And then in the 1990s, the bra industry leaped to a new level in the quest for cleavage by utilizing water, air and silicone pads. Improvements in these developments take us on into the 21st century with companies like Fashion Forms which are mostly about breast management and enhancement.

Stay tune for next story on bra, in the ever changing fashion industry

Quote: Life is a reciprocal exchange. To move forward, you have to give back - Oprah Winfrey

The evolution of brassiere

2011-08-18T03:25:00.000-07:00

How ladies have been containing themselves through the ages?

Women have used garments designed to secure their feminine assets by lifting, separating and restraining their breasts and tightening the waist, even as early as 2000 BC. In Ancient Rome and Greece, in the third and fourth centuries, women wore simple tunics with no shaping undergarments. This floppy tradition continued on into the twelfth century.

Somewhere in the thirteenth or fourteenth century things began to change. A stiff under bodice called a "cotte" was developed to support the women’s breast and by the fifteenth century it was named a "body" or more appropriately a "pair of bodies" since it was made in two pieces.

The French called this Soutien-gorge breast supporter. The original French meaning was support, but the word was out of use and the French chose to call a bra soutien-gorge. The Gallic folk even designed their own corset which they named the “bandeau” and by 400AD, theirs was the most fashionable in the Western world, made of linen and frilly lace – call it medieval haute couture!

It wasn’t the western culture to flare their assets at all. When religion ruled Europe by 1300, it became increasingly important to hide a woman’s curves, the fairer sex sought corsets that would minimize breasts as much as possible. By the 1400s women’s chest were covered up to such an extreme that ladies from London to Leningrad were wearing ruffled collars right up to their chins. The only man who would see a lady’s cleavage was her husband.

Chinese Dudou

In China during the Ming dynasty, a form of foundation cloth complete with cups and straps drawn over shoulders and tied to the girth seam at the lower back called a dudou was in vogue among the rich women. While they first arose in the Ming Dynasty, were also common in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). In English they are known as 'stomach protectors' or 'tummy covers'.

In England bust improvers were available in the Edwardian period. By 1905 BBs as they were known were the usual wear. In Spain they added wire, steel, whalebone, and other forms of reinforcements. Unfortunately, it was not a very comfortable garment to wear.

Minoan women on the island of Crete wore bra-like garments that lifted the bare bust out of their clothing. During the 1550s, Catherine de Medicis, wife of King Henri II of France, banned thick waisted women from court functions. It was she who introduced steel corsets. Since the 1500s until the 1800s the corset was the primary under-garment used by women for the purpose of shaping the waist and lifting the breasts.

Quote: We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give - Sir Winston Churchill

Change of blogs address

2011-07-28T01:16:00.000-07:00

Please be informed that our blogs address has been changed to

http://gsource.blogspot.com

for easy access of our readers.

We thank you for your support and hope to see more article contributions from our readers.

Fabric identification by burning

2011-07-22T01:47:00.001-07:00

How to determine fabric content by using burn test.

Snip a piece of fabric equivalent to 1" square. Using a butane lighter and holding the fabric with a pair of tweezers ignite the fabric over a non-flammable surface in a well ventilated area.Examine the quality and color of the flame, the odor produced, and the quality of the resulting ash or cinder. Use this table to help determine your fabric's content.

FABRIC

FLAME
QUALITY

ODOR

ASH
QUALITY

COMMENTS
WOOL orange color
sputtery burning hair
or feathers blackish
turns to powder
when crushed flame will self extinguish
if flame source is removed
no smoke
SILK burns slowly burning hair
or feathers grayish
turns to powder
when crushed burns more easily than wool
but will self extinguish is flame
source removed
COTTON yellow to orange color
steady flame burning paper
or leaves grayish, fluffy slow burning ember
LINEN yellow to orange color
steady flame burning paper
or leaves similar to cotton takes longer to ignite than cotton but otherwise very similar
RAYON fast orange flame burning paper
or leaves almost no ash ember will continue to glow after flame source removed
POLYESTER orange flame, sputtery sweet or fruity smell hard shiny black bead black smoke
ACETATE burns and melts,sizzly acidic or vinegary hard black bead will continue to burn after flame source removed
NYLON burns slowly and melts, bluse base and orange tip, no smoke burning celery hard grayish or brownish bead self extinguish if flame source removed
ACRYLIC burns and melts, white-orange tip, no smoke acrid black hard crust will continue to burn after flame source removed

Plus size lingerie

2011-07-22T01:40:00.000-07:00

Some of the lingerie we see available may not be able fit some. We have available full range of plus size intimate apparel and here are some of them.

Here is how you measure your size

Check out these from our facebook

http://www.facebook.com/pages/G-Source/321685140999

What is AQL

2011-06-10T19:32:00.000-07:00

The most commonly used standard for product inspections is standard ISO 2859-1 (ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2003). It uses the concept of AQL, or Acceptable Quality Limit. The standard definition of the AQL is “the maximum defective percent (or the maximum number of defects per hundred units) that, for purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average”.

A sampling size, based on the AQL tables, will be selected and then inspected for defects.

Defects are broken into 3 categories: Minor, Major and Critical. While these can vary from client to client, the typical definitions are as follow:

A Minor defect is a discrepancy from the standards, but one that is not likely to affect the usability of an object.
A Major defect is one that is likely to create failure of the unit for its intended purpose.
A Critical defect is one that is deemed to be hazardous or unsafe.

According to the number of defects found for each type and according to the number of defects allowed (figures given by the AQL tables), your QC can advise you to accept or to reject your shipment.

How to use the AQL Tables?

The AQL tables will help to determine the sampling size we will need to inspect according to your ordered quantity and your level of severity. You can choose Levels I, II or III, with Level III being the most stringent testing and Level I being the least. The standard level, the one used by default and by 98% of the people is the Level II. This is up to the client, but it is the recommended level.

In order to find the necessary sampling size to be inspected, you must first look at the first chart and find on the left side the range of items being produced in total. For example, if you are producing 8000 items, at Level II you have the letter L, which in the second table corresponds to a sample size of 200.

On the top of the second chart are the defect levels, ranging from 0 to 6.5 (we cut the higher values out of the chart, because they are not relevant for buyers of consumer goods).

You can choose which level to apply for your type of defect: critical, major and minor. Usually most importers will choose standard defect levels which are 0/2.5/4.0 but one can choose 0/1.5/2.5 if he wishes.

Using the standard 0/2.5/4 defect levels and a sample size of 200, we see that if you have more than 0 critical defects, 10 major defects or 14 minor defects, you should reject your shipment.

Of course the decision about what to do after your received the inspection results belongs to you. Most importers will wish to discuss all inspection findings with their vendor/manufacturer in order to improve whatever possible. In case the inspection results are very close to AQL limits, it is important that you double check if the level of found defects is acceptable to you or not.

http://www.asiaqualityfocus.com

Quote: Quality of a product is not what the supplier puts in. It is what the customer gets out and willing to pay for - Peter Drucker

Clothing brands adopt voluntary ban on sandblasting

2011-06-01T19:14:00.000-07:00

International clothing brands and retailers including C&A, Carrefour, Esprit, H&M, Inditex and Levi Strauss have collectively imposed a voluntary ban on sandblasting in their global supply chains — and are calling on other companies to join them.

Their action was agreed earlier this week at a meeting hosted by the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Federation (ITGLWF), the global union representing workers in the industry.

Firms who have signed the voluntary ban have agreed to end the practice of sandblasting throughout their supply chains, including the use of aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, silicon carbide, copper slag and garnet for abrasive blasting.

They have also pledged to work with their suppliers to make the transition to alternative methods, and say they will take the necessary steps to ensure the ban is effectively applied.

Apparel sandblasting involves projecting fine sand with compressed air to create a worn look on denim and other garments. Sandblasting can be extremely damaging to the health of workers if proper safeguards are not followed, and can lead to a disabling and potentially fatal lung disease called silicosis.

Soon after the impact of sandblasting on workers’ health came under scrutiny in Turkey last July, Levi Strauss & Co and Hennes & Mauritz AB (H&M) became the first to implement a global ban on the process.

They have since been followed by a number of other leading brands and retailers — such as Bestseller, C&A, Carrefour, and Esprit — who have also said they would eliminate sandblasting in their supply chains.

ITGLWF general secretary Patrick Itschert says that in the absence of effective government regulation a total industry-wide ban is the only way forward.

http://www.mrketplace.com/15815/clothing-brands-adopt-voluntary-ban-on-sandblasting/

Quote: success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm - Sir Winston Churchill

Factory Outlet Insiders: Former Gap exec now COO at Children's Place

2011-05-14T01:19:00.000-07:00

Factory Outlet Insiders: Former Gap exec now COO at Children's Place

Very expensive clothing for all

2011-05-11T00:54:00.000-07:00

Cotton prices have skyrocketed over the past year and a half and have more than doubled in the past 12 months. Let’s look at three key questions

1. Why is this and what affect has it had (and is it having) on the price of your clothes?

2. What can makers of cotton based products do to handle this?

3. Is it rational? Some people believe cotton has been irrationally over-inflated in price and are looking at shorting.

The Why

According to the article in Textiles Intelligence… “the main cause is a massive hike in the price of raw cotton. In the 18 months between March 2009 and the end of September 2010 this rose by 127%, from 51 cents/lb to almost 116 cents/lb. Cotton is in short supply because farmers cut back on plantings when cotton prices were low. Also, cotton usage is rising in response to strong retail demand growth in China and India. And a further blow to cotton prices has been struck by the devastating floods in Pakistan.”

Pakistan is a major producer of cotton but growth has been tricky and cotton is a complicated crop to tend to. Flooding in the region and other bad weather affecting crops in China and Australia certainly put a dent in the price and it hit demand (driving prices up). Buyers of raw cotton have to scramble to other regions in the world such as in India (which is growing in it’s cotton production) and then we have the classic example of supply and demand dictating prices.

Four ideas to manage the situation if you make cotton clothing.

Add other materials into your cotton based products. Instead of 100% cotton shirts for example, maybe you redesign them to be 10% polyester or some other materials.

Work more closely with your suppliers to see what is possible to negotiate. Perhaps consolidating 10 suppliers down to 6 or 7 and filling those 6 or 7 up with the additional orders could help mitigate on the other side the price pressure felt on the cotton products. Give them more volume ask for better overall pricing.

Rethink your 30 or 40 percent of your line – does everything need to be cotton? What alternative materials could you use for 2012/2013? Adapt the line to the times.

Re-source apparel production to suppliers that perhaps you never used before but have larger production runs that can allow you to piggyback on the raw materials buy.

Is it Rational?

People tend to panic at times and that can also lead to irrational pricing but if you look at the graphic at the top of this piece, you’ll see that Cotton has been high in the past as well as in the early nineties and then came back down over the next 10 years.

If you take a look at the chart on this page it shows cottons has risen almost 4x that of gold and the case could be made that cotton is simply overpriced by a longshot and will come down. There’s no doubt that the factors of high demand for cotton products coupled with China’s consumption of cotton and add in a buzz in the world about how cotton is going up up up, maybe we simply end up with a self fulfilling prophecy that pushes the price of cotton too high compared to what it should be based on real supply and demand.

We’ll find out in the next 1-2 years but in the meantime I expect that consumers will be holding on to their jeans a little while longer than they used to and retailers will be closely watching how many units they buy. Better to sell out than get stuck with dead and perishable inventory.

http://sourcingthreads.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/very-expensive-jeans-for-all/cotton-5/

High cotton price - how did we get there?

2011-05-11T00:23:00.000-07:00

10 years ago cotton was pricing at about $.43/lb and today it is around $2.13/lb

In 2008 Cotton Market started to tighten (Supply & Demand). At $.60 or $.70 it’s below cost of production for farmers.
In 2009 the price dropped somewhat during recession – so farmers planted less.
In first half of 2010 the market started to recover and prices went up.
In second half of 2010 prices skyrocketed.

Why did this happen?

1. The Fundamental Balance has Tightened. Mill consumption recovered faster than farmers’ ability to grow cotton. Prices went up. Cotton harvests are in the Fall and it takes a year to replenish and about 2-3 years to balance out.

2. China continues to be a huge consumer of cotton and has to go to market to buy it. Mills are buying.

3. Exportable crops are sold out. India didn’t release full capacity and took their cotton off the market. Brasil in the Southern hemisphere is coming to market but is too small to make a dent in market quotes. 33% of 2012 crop already sold and it hasn’t even been planted yet.

4. Price volatility remains high making it hard for mills to commit at times.

On the Supply side:

Production should increase in 2011/2012 but this new cotton will not come to market until Fall of 2011. China is hoarding cotton frantically. Cotton futures (ICE futures) show the price coming down over the next two years from about $1.89/lb in 2011 to perhaps around $.96 in 2013, but we’re not going to see the prices of 10 years ago. Also – government policy in the USA has been pushing ethanol which has warped the price of corn. Farmers in many instances have also been forced to choose between growing corn or cotton.

On the Demand side:

Emerging economies (BRICS) driving demand plus recovery in industrial markets plus consumers spending less on clothes due to higher prices.

The reality is that clothing and anything made with cotton will simply cost more. Here’s an article from CNBC hitting this very subject.

So what can Brands/Buyers do ?

Offensive cost optimization such as add seeing if polyester can be added in some percentage to their lines if possible. Reduce the amount of cotton used until prices fall back a little.

Find a new Supplier of your cut & sewn goods that could have better pricing on cotton from having larger sources that bought in the past at a better price.

Read more from http://sourcingthreads.wordpress.com/2011/02/15/very-expensive-jeans-for-all-part-2

Product safety management system

2011-04-04T03:47:00.000-07:00

After a wave of high-profile product recalls recently, manufacturing and retail businesses around the world have been forced to recognize product safety as one of the major concerns. From toxic metal contamination on children’s toys, to defective design elements in major-brand automobiles, product recalls have become routine news items in the twenty-four hour media realm.

The public, the government, and industry watchdog groups have all begun to demand a higher standard of social responsibility on the part of manufacturers, retailers and corporations in all sectors.

For sewn goods manufacturers, and especially those who source materials overseas, there are a few regulatory acts like The Federal Hazardous Substances Act, the Flammable Fabrics Act, the Poison Prevention Packaging Act and the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act, of which the basic requirements of CPSIA compliance is that all products subject to a ban or safety standard must be accompanied by a General Certificate of Conformity (GCC). The GCC must contain the following information:

1) Date and place of manufacture;

2) Date and place of testing;

3) A suitable identification of the manufacturer issuing the certificate (including the name and contact information for the individual responsible for maintaining records of test results);

4) Certification of conformance with any and all applicable Consumer Product Safety rules, along with a specification of those applicable standards

Instituted late in 2008, the CPSIA allows for civil penalties of up to USD100,000 per violation, with a cap of up to USD15 million overall. Not only product recalls cut into profit margin, they also damage a company’s reputation and public image tremendously, and the hefty fines are too ignore.

Part of the solution, is the implementation of a Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) system, or a Product Data Management (PDM) system. These customized software tools offer the ability to track data points universally and in real time, to prevent mismanagement of important data, to oversee information from the time its components are manufactured; to the time it hits the shelf and find out precisely where in the supply chain the problem occurred.

When your main purpose is to create fabulous designs, to please consumers and to make a profit at the same time, then all of these regulatory requirements may seem like burdensome roadblocks. But, when dealt with effectively and confidently, your company’s compliance with high-profile regulations can be a public relations advantage.

Eczema and bodily irritants from fabric

2011-03-25T23:46:00.000-07:00

When you wear a fabric very close to your skin for long periods of time, there can be negative effects. Some of the fabrics that are most closely tied to eczema outbreaks are the following.

Wool. Many people who suffer from allergies must avoid wool clothing. The same holds true for some people who suffer from eczema. The woolen fibers can cause itching, rashes, and eczema occurrences. Other wool-like substances, which produce similar reactions, are cashmere, Merino, and mohair.
Polyester. Though it may appear smooth, polyester actually contains tiny fibers that can penetrate the surface of the skin and cause intense irritation. Although most polyester and nylon fabric is lightweight, it is rarely very breathable, and the sweat and heat buildup on the skin contributes to eczema.
Synthetic fibers. Other man-made materials such as acrylic, nylon, and various blends may produce eczema.
Other clothing. Like food and chemicals, nearly every type of clothing has been blamed for eczema outbreak. Some have found that eczema increases when they wear denim and leather, possibly because of the buildup of heat. Obviously, rough material also causes skin irritation.

To avoid eczema-causing clothing, try wearing loose-fitting 100% cotton clothing. The lightweight, non-clinging, and breathable features of cotton will help keep your skin breathable and healthy

Quote: I make fashion work for me

Little about Jimmy Choo

2011-03-25T03:51:00.000-07:00

Ever since its founding by Francis Light in 1786, Georgetown played an important role as the place for foreigners to conduct their businesses and the shoe industry was developed since then.

According to the old cobblers, shoe-makers in Penang have mastered talents prior to the 1960s whereby luxurious shoes British wore were of leather shoes with hidden thread. It was time-consuming to make leather shoes and required excellent skills. Some of the apprentices were still unable to produce a pair of good leather shoes even after learning for four years. A skilled shoe-maker could normally make only a pair of shoes of hidden thread in one day, and some might need a couple of days!

During the early days, majority of leather shoes were made of leather or sheepskin and the shoe-makers were required to sew the thread through the skin of these shoes. Such thread-hidden shoes were out of trend 30 years ago and are considered as precious antique shoes by modern shoe-makers.

World renowned Jimmy Choo used to be an apprentice at Hong Kong Shoe Store in Georgetown, Penang. Jimmy Choo was born in 1961 in Malaysia to a family of shoemaker and it is believed that this was where his outstanding shoe-making skill was picked up from. After moving to London and training at Cordwainers Technical College - now part of the London College of Fashion -- Choo began to sell his handmade couture footwear in the late 1980s. Before long, his client list included famous names like Princess Diana, but his one-of-a-kind, handcrafted creations were out of reach for most women. The painstaking methods Choo used to create the shoes meant their availability was extremely limited.

That changed when Tamara Mellon approached Choo in 1996 with the idea of mass-marketing fashionable, high-quality footwear for women. In 1997, the two opened the first Jimmy Choo Boutique in London and began selling ready-to-wear women's shoes that were designed by Choo and produced at factories in Italy. It didn't take long for the company to find success: Celebrities, already familiar with Choo's handmade creations, snapped up the new line and quickly made the shoes a fixture on the red carpet and pop culture.

Jimmy Choo today offers a fresh selection of innovative, trendy shoes each season without abandoning the classic silhouettes that never go out of fashion. The company also makes handbags and clutch purses, which are frequently seen in the hands of celebrities.

Choo himself, who sold his stake in the company in 2001, continues to handcraft shoes in London under the Jimmy Choo Couture label. In 2003, Queen Elizabeth II made him an officer of the Order of the British Empire. Mellon and creative director Sandra Choi, who worked with Choo before the company's launch and is the niece of his wife, oversee the ready-to-wear collection. As of 2007, Jimmy Choo has more than 60 retail stores worldwide. The shoes are also available online and in department stores such as Neiman Marcus in the U.S. and Harrods in Great Britain, though certain styles are exclusive to Jimmy Choo boutiques.

From a personal side, you’d be surprise that Choo potters around at home in airline slippers! He designs his own shoes and his cousin makes them for him in London. He does wear high heels he made, especially when he goes to a club. This is because English are much taller than him and he has to use a three inch heel with a half inch platform at the front.

Quote from Jimmy Choo – shoe-designing is an art form, it comes from everyday life, but it must be architecturally sound and aesthetically pleasing.

Pray for Japan

2011-03-20T00:09:00.000-07:00

As the rest of the world waits to see if Japan can avert a nuclear catastrophe, a small band of experts is putting their lives at risk to prevent the disaster. Thousands of people living near the troubled Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant have been evacuated from their homes because of the risk of radiation leaks from reactors damaged by last week's devastating earthquake and tsunami.

But while most hurry in the opposite direction, about 180 plant workers are staying put -- despite the fact that doing so could result in serious illness or even death -- to battle the meltdown threat. These workers at the site are involved in a heroic endeavor despite the fragmentary evidence that in some places on the site there were life-threatening doses of radiation. They are doing enormously heroic work. Bravo.

Pray for those in Japan.

Sustainability in performance apparel

2011-03-19T22:42:00.000-07:00

Has performance apparel meet the demands of an eco-conscious marketplace?

The performance apparel industry has often been singled out for the damage its operations cause to the environment, and for the poor working conditions in some of the factories it uses. However, many of the leading brand companies and their suppliers have responded positively to such criticism in a bid to satisfy the demands of an increasingly eco-conscious marketplace. Some firms have gone even further and have shown a genuine commitment to protecting the planet by reducing their carbon footprint and pursuing socially responsible policies in every aspect of their businesses.

Many companies have sought to minimize the impact of their operations on the environment by using recycled materials and offering recyclable products. Some are trying out new materials, processes and technologies which hold the promise of reducing pollution, increasing energy efficiency and minimizing waste. A growing number are incorporating less conventional eco-friendly fibers such as bamboo and organic cotton—as well as materials made from bio-polymers rather than polymers derived from petrochemicals. Greater attention is being paid to the safety of dyestuffs used in coloration, while emerging technologies such as nanotechnology and plasma technology are providing opportunities for the industry to use more sustainable methods of manufacture.

Consumers are playing their part in reducing the carbon footprint of performance apparel by buying increasing quantities organic clothing, using more eco-friendly clothing care methods, and recycling unwanted garments. Governments, too, are playing an active role in steering the performance apparel industry away from unsustainable practices, while environmental groups and lobbyists are working to ensure that such practices are highly publicized and condemned.

Companies are acknowledging that sustainability has become a necessity rather than an option, given the threat of climate change. Also, they are recognizing that they can gain a competitive edge by showing that they are committed to environmentally and socially responsible practices. However, a major challenge is to ensure that such commitment is echoed throughout the industry’s long and highly complex supply chains. Good progress has been made in cleaning up the industry, and the future is bright for those companies which put sustainability high on their agendas. But greater efforts are needed to increase awareness among consumers about the green credentials of the products they buy. Better and more comprehensive labeling could play a greater role in providing such information.

Quote : Great minds think in style

Phthalates and Bisphenol A

2011-03-14T04:26:00.000-07:00

In the wake of news today linking baby powder, lotion and shampoo to higher levels of phthalates in babies' bodies, many parents are looking for answers about avoiding products that contain them.

Phthalates are known as "endocrine disruptors" because they mimic the body's hormones and have, in laboratory animal tests, been shown to cause reproductive and neurological damage. Unfortunately, it's not particularly easy to avoid phthalates. You'll rarely find the word "phthalates" on a label (except for the occasional "phthalate-free," which is helpful).

Here are three tips for identifying products that have, or are likely to have, phthalates or another compound that has raised similar concerns and is found in similar products, Bisphenol A.

Read the ingredients. You can identify phthalates in some products by their chemical names, or abbreviations:

DBP (di-n-butyl phthalate) and DEP (diethyl phthalate) are often found in personal care products, including nail polishes, deodorants, perfumes and cologne, aftershave lotions, shampoos, hair gels and hand lotions. (BzBP, see below, is also in some personal care products.)
DEHP (di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate or Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate) is used in PVC plastics, including some medical devices.
BzBP (benzylbutyl phthalate) is used in some flooring, car products and personal care products.
DMP (dimethyl phthalate) is used in insect repellent and some plastics (as well as rocket propellant).

Be wary of the term "fragrance," which is used to denote a combination of compounds, possibly including phthatates, which are a subject of recent concern because of studies showing they can mimic certain hormones.
Choose plastics with the recycling code 1, 2 or 5. Recycling codes 3 and 7 are more likely to contain bisphenol A or phthalates.

Guide to Recycling Codes on plastics

2011-03-14T03:56:00.000-07:00

Number 1 Plastics
PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate)
Found in: Soft drink, water and beer bottles; mouthwash bottles; peanut butter containers; salad dressing and vegetable oil containers; oven-able food trays.
Recycling: Picked up through most curbside recycling programs.
Recycled into: Polar fleece, fiber, tote bags, furniture, carpet, paneling, straps, (occasionally) new containers
PET plastic is the most common for single-use bottled beverages, because it is inexpensive, lightweight and easy to recycle. It poses low risk of leaching breakdown products. Recycling rates remain relatively low (around 20%), though the material is in high demand by re-manufacturers.

Number 2 Plastics
HDPE (high density polyethylene)
Found in: Milk jugs, juice bottles; bleach, detergent and household cleaner bottles; shampoo bottles; some trash and shopping bags; motor oil bottles; butter and yogurt tubs; cereal box liners
Recycling: Picked up through most curbside recycling programs, although some allow only those containers with necks.
Recycled into: Laundry detergent bottles, oil bottles, pens, recycling containers, floor tile, drainage pipe, lumber, benches, doghouses, picnic tables, fencing
HDPE is a versatile plastic with many uses, especially for packaging. It carries low risk of leaching and is readily recyclable into many goods.

Number 3 Plastics
V (Vinyl) or PVC
Found in: Window cleaner and detergent bottles, shampoo bottles, cooking oil bottles, clear food packaging, medical equipment, siding, windows, piping
Recycling: Rarely recycled; accepted by some plastic lumber makers.
Recycled into: Decks, paneling, mudflaps, roadway gutters, flooring, cables, speed bumps, mats
PVC is tough and weathers well, so it is commonly used for piping, siding and similar applications. PVC contains chlorine, so its manufacture can release highly dangerous dioxins. If you must cook with PVC, don't let the plastic touch food. Also never burn PVC, because it releases toxins.

Number 4 Plastics
LDPE (low density polyethylene)
Found in: Squeezable bottles; frozen food, dry cleaning and shopping bags; tote bags; clothing; furniture; carpet
Recycling: LDPE is not often recycled through curbside programs, but some communities will accept it. Plastic shopping bags can be returned to many stores for recycling.
Recycled into: Trash can liners and cans, compost bins, shipping envelopes, paneling, lumber, landscaping ties, floor tile
LDPE is a flexible plastic with many applications. Historically it has not been accepted but more and more communities are starting to accept it.

Number 5 Plastics
PP (polypropylene)
Found in: Some yogurt containers, syrup bottles, ketchup bottles, caps, straws, medicine bottles
Recycling: Number 5 plastics can be recycled through some curbside programs.
Recycled into: Signal lights, battery cables, brooms, brushes, auto battery cases, ice scrapers, landscape borders, bicycle racks, rakes, bins, pallets, trays
Polypropylene has a high melting point, and so is often chosen for containers that must accept hot liquid. It is gradually becoming more accepted by recyclers.

Number 6 Plastics
PS (polystyrene)
Found in: Disposable plates and cups, meat trays, egg cartons, carry-out containers, aspirin bottles, compact disc cases
Recycling: Number 6 plastics can be recycled through some curbside programs.
Recycled into: Insulation, light switch plates, egg cartons, vents, rulers, foam packing, carry-out containers
Polystyrene can be made into rigid or foam products -- in the latter case it is popularly known as the trademark Styrofoam. Evidence suggests polystyrene can leach potential toxins into foods. The material was long on environmentalists' hit lists for dispersing widely across the landscape, and for being notoriously difficult to recycle. Most places still don't accept it, though it is gradually gaining traction.

Number 7 Plastics

Miscellaneous

Found in: Three- and five-gallon water bottles, 'bullet-proof' materials, sunglasses, DVDs, iPod and computer cases, signs and displays, certain food containers, nylon

Recycling: Number 7 plastics have traditionally not been recycled, though some curbside programs now take them.

Recycled into: Plastic lumber, custom-made products

A wide variety of plastic resins that don't fit into the previous categories are lumped into number 7. A few are even made from plants (polyactide) and are compostable. Polycarbonate is number 7, and is the hard plastic that has parents worried these days, after studies have shown it can leach potential hormone disruptors.

Is Recycled Polyester a sustainable textile?

2011-01-27T00:31:00.001-08:00

Synthetic fibers are the most popular fibers in the world – it’s estimated that synthetics account for about 65% of world production versus 35% for natural fibers. Most synthetic fibers (approximately 70%) are made from polyester, and the polyester most often used in textiles is polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Used in a fabric, it is most often referred to as “polyester” or “poly”.

The majority of the world’s PET production – about 60% – is used to make fibers for textiles; about 30% is used to make bottles. It’s estimated that it takes about 104 million barrels of oil for PET production each year – that’s 70 million barrels just to produce the virgin polyester used in fabrics. That means most polyester – 70 million barrels worth – is manufactured specifically to be made into fibers, NOT bottles, as many people think. Of the 30% of PET which is used to make bottles, only a tiny fraction is recycled into fibers. But the idea of using recycled bottles – “diverting waste from landfills” – and turning it into fibers has caught the public’s imagination.

The reason recycled polyester (often written rPET) is considered a green option in textiles today is twofold, and the argument goes like this:

1. Energy needed to make the rPET is less than what was needed to make the virgin polyester in the first place, so we save energy.

2. And we’re keeping bottles and other plastics out of the landfills.

But the game gets a bit more complicated here because rPET is divided into “post consumer” PET and “post industrial” rPET: post consumer means it comes from bottles; post industrial might be the unused packaging in a manufacturing plant, or other byproducts of manufacturing. The “greenest” option has been touted to be the post consumer PET, and that has driven up demand for used bottles. Indeed, the demand for used bottles, from which recycled polyester fibre is made, is now outstripping supply in some areas and certain cynical suppliers are now buying NEW, unused bottles directly from bottle producing companies to make polyester textile fiber that can be called recycled.

The real problem with making recycled PET a staple of the fiber industry is this: Recycling, as most people think of it, is a myth. Most people believe that plastics can be infinitely recycled – creating new products of a value to equal the old bottles or other plastics which they dutifully put into recycling containers to be collected. The cold hard fact is that there is no such thing as recycling plastic, because it is not a closed loop. None of the soda and milk bottles which are collected from your curbside are used to make new soda or milk bottles, because each time the plastic is heated it degenerates, so the subsequent iteration of the polymer is degraded and can’t meet food quality standards for soda and milk bottles. The plastic must be used to make lower quality products. The cycle goes something like this:

* virgin PET can be made into soda or milk bottles,

* which are collected and recycled into resins

* which are appropriate to make into toys, carpet, filler for pillows, CD cases, plastic lumber products, fibers or a million other products, but not new soda or milk bottles.

* These second generation plastics can then be recycled a second time into park benches, carpet, speed bumps or other products with very low value.

* The cycle is completed when the plastic is no longer stable enough to be used for any product, so it is sent to the landfill

* where it is incinerated (sometimes for energy generation, which a good LCA will offset) -

* or where it will hold space for many years or maybe become part of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch!

And there is another consideration in recycling PET: antimony, which is present in 80 – 85% of all virgin PET, is converted to antimony trioxide at high temperatures – such as are necessary during recycling, releasing this carcinogen from the polymer and making it available for intake into living systems.

Using recycled PET for fibers also creates some problems specific to the textile industry:

* The base color of the recycled polyester chips vary from white to creamy yellow, making color consistency difficult to achieve, particularly for the pale shades. Some dyers find it hard to get a white, so they’re using chlorine-based bleaches to whiten the base.

* Inconsistency of dye uptake makes it difficult to get good batch-to-batch color consistency and this can lead to high levels of re-dyeing, another very high energy process. Re-dyeing contributes to high levels of water, energy and chemical use.

* Unsubstantiated reports claim that some recycled yarns take almost 30% more dye to achieve the same depth of shade as equivalent virgin polyesters.[11]

* Another consideration is the introduction of PVC into the polymer from bottle labels and wrappers.

* Many rPET fibers are used in forgiving constructions such as polar fleece, where the construction of the fabric hides slight yarn variations. For fabrics such as satins, there are concerns over streaks and stripes.

Once the fibers are woven into fabrics, most fabrics are rendered non-recyclable because:

* the fabrics almost always have a chemical backing, lamination or other finish,

* or they are blends of different synthetics (polyester and nylon, for example).

Either of these renders the fabric unsuitable for the mechanical method of recycling, which cannot separate out the various chemicals in order to produce the recycled yarn; the chemical method could - if we had the money and factories to do it.

One of the biggest obstacles to achieving McDonough’s Cradle-to-Cradle vision lies outside the designers’ ordinary scope of interest – in the recycling system itself. Although bottles, tins and newspapers are now routinely recycled, furniture and carpets still usually end up in landfill or incinerators, even if they have been designed to be recycled because project managers don’t take the time to separate out the various components of a demolition job, nor is collection of these components an easy thing to access.

Currently, the vision that most marketers has led us to believe, that of a closed loop, or cycle, in which the yarns never lose their value and recycle indefinitely is simply that – just a vision. Few manufacturers, such as Designtex (with their line of EL fabrics designed to be used without backings) and Victor Innovatex (who has pioneered EcoIntelligent™ polyester made without antimony), have taken the time, effort and money needed to accelerate the adoption of sustainable practices in the industry so we can one day have synthetic fabrics that are not only recycled, but recyclable.

Read more from http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com
Quote: dont hold something in your arms that you can never hold in your heart

Good shoes

2011-01-19T18:34:00.000-08:00

1. Practical and comfort

High heels come in different shapes and styles. As a rule, thin heels are more difficult to balance on than block heels or wedges. Round, square and open toes are much more comfortable than pointed toes. If you really want to wear points, then make sure your toes are not sitting where the shoe starts to taper. You should be able to wiggle them comfortably. Closed styles are better than open styles. When choosing slip-ons or sling-backs, make sure your heel doesn't separate too far from the back of your shoe when you walk.

Make sure the shoes fit properly. A pair of high heeled shoes should fit well. The shoes should not scrape against the back or sides of your feet. All shoes should also have no more than a gap of a quarter of an inch anywhere around the shoe. This includes the box and the sides of the high heeled shoe.

Walk around in the shoes. Determine how the shoes feel on your feet. They should feel comfortable as you walk around. A high heeled pair of shoes should not be difficult to navigate in. You want shoes that will feel good and make it easier for you to walk. Choose high heeled shoes that accomplish this task.

2. Shoes characteristics

a) Position of the heel

The shoe's heel should always sit directly under the middle of your heel so that the weight of your foot rests directly onto it. If the heels sit right at the back of the shoe and falls to the ground at a ninety degree angle, your shoe may eventually collapse. The classic stiletto shape is better as the heel is positioned in exactly the right place.

b) Height of the heel

Decide on height. High heeled shoes come in several different lengths. You want to choose the right height. A good pair should make you feel taller but not so tall that you feel you are walking stilts. Shorter women may want to use higher heels while taller women may want to avoid the really highest heels.

4. Posture

The only way to walk in those sexy high heels is with your head up and your shoulders back. This distributes the weight more evenly around your body and off your feet. If necessary, use a gel-based insert which shift the weight off the ball of your foot.

5. Stretch and massage

After removing your high heels, give your feet a gentle massage. It may be worth investing in a foot massager if you are a regular wearer. Also, stretch your calf muscles a little, do a few ankle rotations and try a few floor exercises that massage your lower back.

Quote of the day:

WORRYING does not take away tomorrows's TROUBLES, it takes away todays' PEACE.

How to make organic paper

2011-01-09T18:22:00.000-08:00

We don't realize how much paper we throw away every day. This is a good craft to both recycle and have fun. It is easier than you think to make your own paper.

Instruction:

Gather everything that you will need.
1 Sheet of newspaper
2 Sheets of scrap paper (This could be white paper, construction paper, or notepad paper)
1 Tall measuring cup
1/4 Cup Shaved tree bark
1/4 Cup Leaves
1/4 Cup Dryer lint
Non-stick cooking spray
Wooden spoon
2 Cup water
1 Handful flower petals
1 Handful grass
Blender
A 12x12 Window screen with small holes.
Take all your paper and shred it. You may do this by scissors or a shredding machine. Gather all your shredded paper and fill up your measuring cup three quarters of the way full. Then add your dryer lint, tree bark, leaves, and grass until your cup is full. Dump measuring cup and 1 cup water into a blender. Take this part slowly. Blend together on low. Your paper should be thick but all shredded. If you make your mixture to think you can always add water until you get the constancy you prefer. You can also make your paper colorful by adding a couple drops of food coloring. Next, add your flower petals and stir with your wooden spoon.
Take your screen and place it over the sink or a bucket. Make sure your screen is clean and spray with cooking spray. Spoon out the paper pulp onto the screen. You want a thin even coat. This makes for quicker drying and your paper doesn't turn out like cardboard. You can also form your paper into different shapes. Like a heart or oval.
Dry your paper and do not disturb until completely dry. Depending on how thick your paper is determines the quickness of drying time. This should take a day or two.
When your ready to take it off the screen you should peel it back slowly. You can either use the paper as is with ruff edges, or you can trim it up and make straight edges. You can now use any writing materials you like on your paper!

Have fun and enjoy!

Quote: the best and most beautiful thing in the world cannot be seen or even touched - they must be felt with the heart (Helen Keller)

Iron or wrinkle free?

2011-01-07T01:15:00.000-08:00

Do you know that the anti-wrinkle finish of your clothing comes from a resin that releases formaldehyde, the chemical that is usually associated with embalming fluids or dissected frogs in biology class?

And clothing is not the only thing treated with the chemical. Formaldehyde is commonly found in a broad range of consumer products and can show up in practically every room of the house. The sheets and pillow cases on the bed, the drapes hanging in the living room, the upholstery on the couch. In the bathroom, it can be found in personal care products like shampoos, lotions and eye shadow. It may even be in the baseball cap hanging by the back door.

Most consumers will probably never have a problem with exposure to formaldehyde. The biggest potential issue for those wearing wrinkle-resistant clothing can be a skin condition called contact dermatitis. It affects a small group of people and can cause itchy skin, rashes and blisters, according to a recent government study on formaldehyde in textiles. Sensitive consumers may have a hard time avoiding it (though washing the clothes before wearing does help).

The levels found in the study are not likely to irritate most people. People who have allergic contact dermatitis caused by formaldehyde in clothing typically become hypersensitive because of some other exposure, like a worker with chapped hands who has handled metal-working fluids that contained the chemical or someone who applied moisturizer with a formaldehyde preservative on inflamed skin. Humidity and sweating can also have an effect on the chemical’s release.

People rarely become allergic to the low levels of formaldehyde released by textile resins, but for those already sensitized; it is entirely possible to react to the low levels released by textile resins in clothing. Some people were probably genetically predisposed to allergy. Research shows that the small group of people who are allergic can develop a rash with levels as low as 30 parts per million.

So why use the chemical at all? Formaldehyde basically keeps the fabric’s fibers in place after a spin in the washing machine. Without it, the fibers become wrinkled or creases may fade. Formaldehyde levels have declined over the last several decades, largely as a byproduct of regulations protecting factory workers at risk of inhaling the chemical and improved resins. The retail industry has also helped to reduce the numbers.Several retailers, including the Gap, whose Banana Republic stores offer an array of no-iron shirts, said those shirts met the most stringent standards. Land’s End and Levi Strauss & Company, too, said all adult textiles, including the never-iron Dockers, met the standards. Nordstrom said all of its clothing conformed to the standard except for its wrinkle-free garments, because of the way they were manufactured. But the company said the levels were minimal.

Over all, minimizing your exposure is a good idea. What would you choose, your iron or wrinkle-free clothes?

Quotes of the day

A healthy attitude is contagious but don't wait to catch it from others. Be a carrier - Tom Stoppard

Christmas with a vision

2010-12-21T20:49:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas! A time of goodwill and celebration, often accompanied by seasonal increases in eating, drinking and spending. If all goes well this combination should result in a lot of fun, but unfortunately it will also result in an estimated 3 million tonnes of waste. However, you can have the best of both worlds. With a bit of thought you can limit the impact you have on the environment this Christmas and still have a great time.

Why don't we have a green Christmas and recycle? Here are some tips how we can save the earth:

Presents

* Buy gifts which are durable. Things which break easily will just end up in the bin and cannot be reused by anybody.
* Where possible, avoid buying (or requesting) presents which rely on disposable parts, including batteries. Always look for alternatives, eg a coffee maker that uses a washable filter rather than throwaway paper ones, or a wind-up/solar powered radio.
* Buy Recycled! Buying products that have a recycled content is just as important as actually recycling. It is essential that markets for recycled products are developed. Look out for unusual gifts made from recycled materials, such as glass tableware, stationery or photo frames.
* If you're not sure what to buy, why not give money or gift vouchers? You can also give vouchers for use in high street stores and book shops.
* How about buying a gift that will last for a whole year? Examples include: sponsorship of an animal, membership of an organization or subscription to a magazine.
* Consider buying presents that are environmentally friendly or produced in a sustainable way. Support your local charity shop, buy presents from charity catalogs and look for Fair Trade alternatives.

Wrapping and decorating

* Choose decorations which can be reused, rather than flimsy ones which will be used once and thrown away. You can also have fun making decorations from scrap materials.
* Cut down on what you buy. Gift tags can be made from old greetings cards. Any kind of unusual paper can be used to wrap gifts.
* Save envelopes and reuse them with reuse labels.
* Buy recycled wrapping paper and use string, ribbon or wool for wrapping gifts, rather than using sticky tape. The string and paper can then be reused.

Recycling Christmas cards and trees

* Instead of sending a card, why not send a message or electronic Christmas card to friends and family on the internet . Alternatively, if you normally send cards to multiple recipients at the same address, such as in the workplace, why not place just one card in a communal area and pledge the money you have saved to charity?
* Buy a locally grown real tree with roots that can be planted in your garden or kept in a pot for next year. Artificial trees are a good alternative as they can be used many times, but as they are usually made of a number of different materials, including plastics, they are difficult to recycle once they are no longer required.
* Contact your local authority to check if it has a scheme for chipping and composting trees to produce mulch/soil improver.

General

* Set yourself a challenge - how empty can you keep your bin? Think about how you can reduce the amount of waste you produce at home and at work. Try to buy long lasting items rather than disposable ones and avoid over-packaged items.
* What can you do with the waste you do create? There are now many things that can be recycled such as shoes and clothes, cardboard, cards and foil and plastic, as well as the usual bottles, cans and paper. Work out where you can store recyclables until you can take them to a recycling point.
* Try to plan journeys to recycling facilities around essential trips such as shopping, this helps to minimize environmental impact and will save you time.
* Pass any unwanted presents on to your local charity shop rather than throwing them away - there is sure to be someone who will like them!

Quote: what you see is who I am

Outlook of organic cotton clothing

2010-11-03T02:31:00.000-07:00

Will organic clothing going to be the future fashion trend?

Clothes made from organic fabrics are easy to maintain and clean. Despite of the low market share in global clothing industry, on an average organic clothes demand is growing at an encouraging rate. Designers are working towards making these clothes more appealing, fashionable and economical. Down the line, after some years people would be spotted wearing trendy and stylish outfits made up of organic cotton and fabrics.

The effect of chemicals on skin and the body is a concern for everyone nowadays. No one has the desire to knowingly damage themselves and if you can be kind to your skin while adhering to the latest fashion trends, it is easily understandable why this trend is becoming more and more popular. With a variety of styles for both women, men and children, even including footwear and manufacturers mushrooming worldwide, it is clear that there is certainly a market for organic fashion clothing. Possibly one of the main reasons for this undeniable draw is the fact that organic clothing goes hand in hand with ethical clothing. Fair trade products are becoming more and more popular with consumers and this has been extended to the clothing lines. With frequent news stories of sweatshops slave trade situations throughout the fashion industry, even the everyday consumer has the ethical nature of the manufacturer in mind when shopping.

However, it is not only the ethical factors of the organic fashion clothing industry that makes it so popular. With many celebrities picking up on the clear benefits of this range of clothing, both to the consumer and the industry there are several of these celebrities who are opening up their own collection. Emma Watson, for example is opening her own collection of eco-friendly clothing for 16-24 year-old. With celebrities such as this drawing attention to the industry, especially to such a young and important age group, it is no wonder that it is doing so well. Although the clothing can sometimes be a little expensive the durability and health benefits of the products outweigh this factor.

Would you think the future of Organic Fashion Clothing Industry looks positive?

Quote: get personal, get fashion

Happy St Patrick' Day

2010-03-17T01:48:00.000-07:00

Mastectomy bras and camisoles

2010-03-17T01:41:00.000-07:00

Before you head to the hospital for any breast surgery, it's a good idea to purchase the right bra or camisole for recovery, and pack it in your overnight bag. You may even want to buy two bras, as you may need to wear a post-surgical bra continuously until you begin to heal. Wear one bra while the other is in the wash.

Features to shop for in a post-surgical bra

Let comfort be your guide when shopping for post-surgical bras. Look for wide bands across the shoulders and beneath the breasts. This assures you that the bra won’t cut into your skin and muscles and will stay in position. Check for adjustable straps and closures, so you can make your bra fit properly, no matter what your new shape may be. Steer clear of underwire bras until after treatment, and then check with your doctor or surgeon before you start using underwire bras again. Go with as few seams as possible, to avoid irritation to your tender skin and particularly your incisions. Choose seamless bras whenever you can – they are simply more comfortable. Stick to breathable fabrics or natural fibers for long-range comfort.

Front closing soft cup bra

After breast surgery, you can be secure and comfortable in front-closing bras with soft cups. Because breast surgery can sometimes affect your shoulder rotation, you may have trouble reaching hooks on a back-closing bra, or pulling a bra on overhead. Many sports bras have zippers, hooks, or slides that make dressing easy. Soft bra cups will stretch to fit over surgical dressings, and provide light compression on incisions.

Compression vest and bra

Your breast surgeon may tell you to get a compression bra or vest for wear after surgery. These offer greater coverage of your breasts, back, and underarm tissues. Compression on incisions can help prevent swelling from fluid buildup as you heal. The right compression vest or bra can hold your skin in place and prevent skin from shifting and stretching around your sutures. This helps reduce puckering around scar tissue, which saves you from additional surgery later.

Mastectomy Bras and Recovery

Whether you choose to have breast reconstruction or use prostheses, a mastectomy bra can offer you a lot of comfort right after breast surgery. Mastectomy bras have soft inner linings and special pockets to accommodate your prosthesis. A camisole style bra or a full cup mastectomy bra will give you comfort and security after breast surgery. A word of caution – use a lightweight prosthesis right after a mastectomy, so you won’t have extra weight on your incision. You can get a weighted prosthesis after you have healed.

Post surgical camisole and tops

A camisole is similar to a tank top or a sleeveless undershirt. Nowadays these are adorned with lace and ribbons and are made of stretchy, lightweight fabric. Post-surgical tops and camisoles come with pockets that can hold surgical drains securely in place. Some post-op camisoles are designed with bra cups and prostheses pockets built in, as well as room for surgical drains. Look around and you may find blouses, T-shirts, nightgowns, and pajama tops designed with bra cups and removable drain pockets – many of which may be used long after you have recovered from surgery.

Recycling facts and benefits

2010-03-08T01:39:00.000-08:00

Everyone today has heard of how important it is to recycle and most cities offer a recycling program, but what exactly is recycling and how beneficial is it really to us and the environment?

What are the recycling facts and benefits?
Recycling is the process of turning one products useful parts into a new product; this is done to conserve on the consumption of resources, energy and space used in landfills.

By recycling 1 plastic bottle not only saves anywhere from 100 to 1000 years in the landfill but also saves the environment from the emissions in producing new bottles as well as the oil used to produce that bottle.

For every 1 ton of plastic that is recycled we save the equivalent of 2 people’s energy use for 1 year, the amount of water used by 1 person in 2 month’s time and almost 2000 pounds of oil.

Approximately 60% of our rubbish thrown away today could be recycled. A survey was done and 9 out of 10 people surveyed said they would recycle more if it was easier.

Odd as it seems there are many people who do not realize that plastic bottles our water comes in is made out of oil. This is the same oil that is used to make gasoline. It's the same oil that is in such high demand and is not an unlimited resource. Today the most common products in cities recycling programs are paper products, cardboard, plastic, glass and aluminum.

Taking Just A Moment
Taking just a moment to put your newspaper, soda can and glass spaghetti jar in the recycling bin will save everyone years in environmental harm from production of new materials, over crowded landfills and the depletion of our natural resources.

4000 Years
When we do not recycle at least our glass or aluminum we cost the earth in power usage, water and oil usage and landfill usage; glass takes up to 4000 years to decompose in a landfill yet can be recycled indefinitely.

Earn Money
Recycling can be done at home as well as in conjunction with city programs. Many scrap yards pay for scrap metal including the soda cans and soup cans we use every day.

Be Creative
Many useful items can be made from our everyday trash; the cardboard tubes left over from paper towel and toilet paper can make useful storage containers for our extra extension cords and prevents a tangled mess in the Christmas lights. If your going to throw these out don't just throw it in the rubbish bin, put it the recycling bin. Baby jars can become snow globes the kids can make and give as gifts, old Christmas cards can become new hand made cards and a glass or plastic bottle along with some clear oil and food coloring and a few other common household items can become a groovy lava lamp! The possibilities are endless and instructions can be found in books and on the internet.

Start Today
Recycling is a very environmentally green activity; however, there are ways that you can make it greener as well as building a strong beginning if you do not currently recycle.

Many people beginning a recycling program look around and wonder what they can put in the recycling bin; there is so much information available on this site, so don't panic.

By reusing your recycled storage containers you save on the environmental impact as well. Paper and plastic bags are good for recycling storage; however, a plastic reusable bin is even better.

Spread The Word
Share what you know. If you notice abundant trash in your neighborhood start spreading the word and your experience with recycling and if there isn’t already one in place strive to get a city recycling pick up program started.

The fact is many of our resources as well as our Earth is not renewable and we have to start taking control of our selves beginning with the world we live in.

Quote: Express yourself with fashionable freedom

Quick Quiz

2010-02-26T01:46:00.000-08:00

1. The term CFR requires who to pay the costs and freight necessary to bring the goods to the named port of destination?

a) the buyer

b) the seller

c) the banker

d) the forwarder

2. Which of the following terms means the seller has the obligation to pay costs and freight necessary to bring the goods to the named port of destination, in addition he has to procure marine insurance against the buyer’s risk of loss or damage of the goods during the carriage.

a) FOB

b) CIF

c) CFR

d) DDP

3. EXW requires who to arrange export clearance and loading at the seller's premises, bearing cost and risk as well?

a) the buyer

b) the seller

c) the banker

d) the forwarder

4. Under FOB, FCA, CFR and CPT, who will be responsible for arranging insurance?

a) the buyer

b) the seller

c) the shipper

d) the forwarder

5. Under Irrevocable LC term, can the LC be canceled or withdrawn after it has been opened and notified to the exporter?

a) can

b) cannot

6. When there is no description on the time limit for negotiation of the bills of exchange on the LC, and if they are brought to the bank more than 21 days later than the date of issuance of the BL, can the bank refuse to purchase the documents?

a) can

b) cannot

7. If the LC terms demand that the bill of exchange drawn by the exporter is the type which requires the importer to pay when the bill is presented to him by the reimbursing bank, this LC is called:

a) sight LC

b) acceptance LC

c) cash LC

d) confirmed LC

8. Which one of the following would cost more to the buyer?

a) DES - delivered ex ship

b) DEQ - delivered ex quay

c) DDU - delivered duty unpaid

d) DDP - delivered duty paid

9. Which one of the following types of B/L best described this situation: A document is issued for receipt of cargo in a first port of unloading at Myanmar for transfer into another vessel in Singapore serving the final destination in Hamburg.

a) cargo receipt

b) direct BL

c) through BL

d) air waybill

10. A forwarder works for and is responsible to carry out the instructions received from whom in a CFR or CIF contract?

a) buyer

b) seller

c) consignee

d) shipping line

Write to us for answers. A small token will be given for those with correct answers.

INCOTERMS

2010-02-10T01:52:00.000-08:00

Incoterms is an abbreviation for International Commercial Terms. This is an international rule for the interpretation of the most commonly used trade terms in international trade prepared by ICC (International Chamber of Commerce) which is based in Paris. The purpose of the Incoterms is to avoid dispute between trading parties arising from different interpretation of such trade terms in different countries.

Today, most of the businesses of international trade in the world are conducted using Icoterms as a general business customs. In order to avoid misunderstanding and confusion between a seller and a buyer, it is advisable for the exporter to add to the contract or correspondence, which constitutes the agreement between term, a clause to the effect that interpretation of trade terms are based on Incoterms.

Most commonly, they stipulate the wording in the general terms and conditions of the contract. They put such phrases like "Trade terms such as FOB, CIF adn any other terms which may be used in this contract shall have the meanings defined and interpreted by Incoterms 2000, ICC, as amended, unless otherwise specifically provided in this contract".

There are 13 Incoterms as follows:

EXW : ex works

FCA : free carrier

FAS : free alongside ship

FOB : free on board

CFR : cost and freight (Formerly C&F)

CIF: cost, insurance and freight

CPT : carriage paid to

CIP: carriage and insurance paid

DAF: delivered at frontier

DES: delivered ex-ship

DEQ: delivered ex quay (duty paid)

DDU: delivered duty unpaid

DDP: delivered duty paid

For a precise understanding of Incoterms, check out the website http://www.icc.org/incoterm

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Baby footwear

2010-01-21T00:45:00.000-08:00

Shoes complete the outfit for kids, but wait until your child begins walking--- usually at 10 to 14 months--before buying her first official pair of shoes. That is when a child really needs them.

We recommend picking a first shoe with flexibility, which helps the foot develop its arch. Try to bend the shoe in half, if it bends easily, it is a good shoe. The best shoes also have traction on the bottom so your baby won’t slip easily. A shoe doesn’t have to be expensive to be flexible. Pick a pair of shoes that is light weight as your kid will not be able to carry a ton with their tiny feet.

Beside these, make sure you buy the right size. You will want some room at the toe, but not so much that your child will trip. Also, keep in mind that toddlers kick off anything and everything, so look for flexible shoes that lace. They are harder to take off than shoes with Velcro closures.

To keep your prewalker’s feet warm outside on cool days, look for soft, elasticized baby socks or booties that cling to the feet so your baby can’t kick them off. You don’t have to buy expensive leather baby shoes as baby will outgrow quickly.

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Recycle & save the earth

2010-01-19T02:50:00.000-08:00

One easy way to help save the earth is to quit using plastic shopping bags from stores, as they end up in landfills and stay there for years. Make some simple tote bags instead, either from ripstop nylon (sturdy for groceries), or from your favorite fabrics. Keep the bags in the car for your shopping adventures, and remember to take them in the store with you. It will soon become second nature for you as there will be more and more eco-minded people and businesses. Some even reward us for bringing our own bags, and some businesses now charge extra if you don’t.

Now is also a good time to investigate earth-friendly and sustainable fibers like bamboo, hemp and other options. Most fabric stores, and certainly many online sources, offer these alternative fibers and fabrics at increasingly economical prices. There’s nothing as comfy as a lightweight bamboo knit garment.

Don’t forget to clean out your sewing room and give things you no longer need to worthy causes. Check with a chapter in your area to see what you can repurpose, and give yourself more room, plus a good feeling from helping others. So, honor our precious Earth and plan a sewing-related activity!

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Anti-theft underwear

2010-01-10T23:46:00.000-08:00

Are you afraid of the family jewels being taken from the family safe? Put them where no burglar has gone before, a pair of skid marked underpants. Now you see the genius of the Security Briefs, anti-theft protection masquerading as your dirty tighty whiteys. Not meant for wearing, but it's between a Small and Medium sized men's underwear. Security Briefs are disgustingly funny. Secretly concels your valuables stash. Has skid-mark technology to ensure no one will touch these things so your valuables are safe.

Alternatively, the below are also available for sale at night markets and Chinese department stores. The zipper front pocket is convenient for carrying cash or other items you wish to conceal. They come in an assortment of styles and colors and usually cost around 1 US dollar, a smart investment if you plan on travelling around China for some length of time.

I know this could have been an ugly design but one should pack a couple pairs for long trips in China and wear one on the day you embark on a train ride or long distance bus.

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How to choose winter sports apparel for warmth & comfort

2010-01-06T19:07:00.000-08:00

Layering is an effective and versatile way to dress for winter. The three layers are: wicking, insulating and weather protection.

Inside layer (or long underwear): This is the layer worn next to your skin. The inside layer, worn next to your skin, is usually long underwear. But, long underwear is no longer boring -–you'll see fun, slick and sexy styles for both men and women. There are definitely stand-alone pieces that can be worn as tops to show off. Choose a synthetic fiber that has "wicking" power so the material can wick (or move) moisture away from your skin and pass it through the fabric to evaporate. That way you stay warm, dry and comfortable. Silk is also a good, natural fabric that has wicking abilities.Even when it's cold, it’s possible to sweat — especially if you’re hiking uphill, snowshoeing or Nordic skiing.
Middle or insulating layer: Look for sweaters, pullovers, hoodies and vests designed to keep you heated by trapping air between the fibers. Popular insulation materials include fleece (and numerous variations), which dries quickly and keeps you warm even when wet and good old-fashioned wool which naturally wicks away moisture.
Outer/protection layer: Shells and pants serve as your guard against the elements of winter. They should keep out snow, sleet or rain and block the wind, while also letting perspiration evaporate.

Modern shells and pants are made waterproof and breathable by using tightly woven fabrics teamed with a coating or laminate. This keeps moisture on the outside but allows perspiration to escape — to keep you dry and comfortable. Look for jackets and pants using Gore-Tex, which is best for keeping out rain and wet snow.

Snowboard apparel is designed looser to give riders freedom of movement. Pants are reinforced in the seat and knees for extra protection when kneeling or sitting on the snow.

Don’t forget the details.Look for functional hoods, cuffs, pockets and zippers — details that work well in a snowstorm.

Tips for Winter Fashion & Apparel

2010-01-06T18:54:00.000-08:00

Fashion Tips

The wicking layer should fit snugly (not tight) next to the skin in order to effectively wick moisture. Comfort is key for the insulating layer. It should be loose enough to trap air between layers, but not so bulky that it restricts movement. Whether you are a skier, snowshoer or snowboarder, your protection layer should fit comfortably, offering you maximum range of motion.
Don't wear jeans or street pants. Denim is not waterproof, so water will soak through and you'll end up cold, wet and miserable.
Cotton is not the best choice. Cotton is great for towels, because cotton soaks up and retains moisture. That's precisely why cotton is not great for on-slope apparel. It absorbs moisture (sweat and snow), and retains it. When the wind blows, you will get very, very cold. Don't wear cotton athletic socks, cotton jeans, cotton sweatshirts or cotton T-shirts unless it’s warm out!

Apparel Tips

Look for 100 percent UV protection in sunglasses. Make sure the glasses fit snugly behind your ears and rest gently on the bridge of your nose. You don’t want them falling off when you’re cruising through the powder!
Goggles should form an uninterrupted seal on your face, extending above your eyebrows and below your cheekbones. Watch for gaps, especially around your nose.
Don't buy gloves or mittens that are too tight. There should be a little air space at the tips of your fingers, which acts as additional insulation.

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Merry Christmas

2009-12-24T01:53:00.000-08:00

FABRIC	FLAME QUALITY	ODOR	ASH QUALITY	COMMENTS
WOOL	orange color sputtery	burning hair or feathers	blackish turns to powder when crushed	flame will self extinguish if flame source is removed no smoke
SILK	burns slowly	burning hair or feathers	grayish turns to powder when crushed	burns more easily than wool but will self extinguish is flame source removed
COTTON	yellow to orange color steady flame	burning paper or leaves	grayish, fluffy	slow burning ember
LINEN	yellow to orange color steady flame	burning paper or leaves	similar to cotton	takes longer to ignite than cotton but otherwise very similar
RAYON	fast orange flame	burning paper or leaves	almost no ash	ember will continue to glow after flame source removed
POLYESTER	orange flame, sputtery	sweet or fruity smell	hard shiny black bead	black smoke
ACETATE	burns and melts,sizzly	acidic or vinegary	hard black bead	will continue to burn after flame source removed
NYLON	burns slowly and melts, bluse base and orange tip, no smoke	burning celery	hard grayish or brownish bead	self extinguish if flame source removed
ACRYLIC	burns and melts, white-orange tip, no smoke	acrid	black hard crust	will continue to burn after flame source removed