Fitting a
Bra
Wearing a
bra that fits is much better for your breast health. It is frequently stated,
from the results of surveys that between 70 and 100% of women wear incorrectly
fitted bras. This may be partly due to a lack of understanding of how to
correctly determine bra size; it may also be due to unusual or unexpectedly
rapid growth in size brought on by pregnancy, weight gain, or medical
conditions including virginal breast hypertrophy.
Although
all bras are labeled by size, many women find that the only way to obtain a bra
that fits properly and achieves the effect they want is by trying a bra on with
each bra type, model and brand.
Though
many countries use the metric system, the majority of nations still
use imperial
units to determine the under band size of the bra itself.
There are
several methods which may be used to provide an approximate size by taking
measurements. However, bra sizing systems differ widely between countries,
between manufacturers, and between brands and designs, which can create many problems. Many researchers have demonstrated that these
problems arise because fit requires knowing the breast volume, not the body
circumference (the distance around the body), which is what is actually
measured. Although bra sizing uses the circumference to estimate the volume,
this has been shown to be highly unreliable.
The size
of a bra is commonly described by two values. The first is the band size
(under band), a number based on the circumference of the chest under the bust,
excluding the breasts. The second is the cup size given by a letter of
the alphabet, and relating to the volume of the breasts themselves. For
example, a 30D bra has a 30-size band and a D-size cup. Cup sizes typically
start with AA, the smallest, and increase alphabetically. Double or triple
lettering systems are also used, e.g. DDD for F or AA for a size smaller than
A.
To provide
women with better fitting bras, manufacturer Playtex recently introduced a
range of half-sizes between cup sizes A and D. These half sizes are denoted by
fractions, so that Playtex now provides bras in A, A1⁄2,
B, B1⁄2, C, C1⁄2, and D cups.
Band size
is usually determined by measuring body circumference under the breasts as
tight as possible. A second measurement is a loose fit taken of the chest
circumference over the fullest part of the breasts (overbust). The cup
size can then be calculated with tables or a conversion tool from the
difference between these two measurements.
The mean
underband circumference in the UK
is 34 inches (86 cm). For the overbust measurement, this is 40 inches (101 cm),
for women 18–64 years.
Follow
these four easy steps to ensure you are shopping for the right bra size:
Measurement
number 1:
Measure under your bust line.
Put on
your best-fitting, unpadded, under wire bra. Measure underneath the bust line
and make sure to measure tightly. Be sure the tape measure is straight across
your back.
The
general rule of thumb for all measuring is: less than ½”, round DOWN, more than
a ½”, round UP. So if your measurement is 32 ¼”, call it 32. Write this number
down. This is measurement number 1.
Band Size:
Calculate
your band size.
If
measurement 1 is UNDER 33 inches, add 5 inches. If this number is odd, round up
to the next EVEN number. If measurement 1 is OVER 33 inches, add 3 inches. If
this number is odd, round up to the next EVEN number. Write this EVEN number
down. This is your band size.
Measurement
number 2: Measure
over the bust line
Measure
over the biggest point of your bust line. This is a looser measurement. Make
sure the tape measure is straight. Write this number down. This is measurement
number 2.
Cup Size: Calculate
your cup size.
First subtract
measurement number 1 from measurement number 2. Then consult the following
chart to find your cup size.
The back strap (under band) and cups should provide most of
the support rather than the shoulder straps, which are responsible for a number
of health problems.
When
viewed from the side, the under band that runs around the body should be
horizontal, should not ride up the back, and should be firm but
comfortable. The underwires at the front
should lie flat against the rib cage (not the breast), along the infra-mammary
fold, and should not dig in to the chest or the breasts, rub or poke out at the
front. The breasts should be enclosed by the cups and there should be a smooth
line where the fabric at the top of the cup ends. There should not be a ridge or any bulging
over the top or sides of the cups, even with a low-cut style such as the demi
bra.
A pair of
breasts can weigh several kilograms. For instance a pair of "D cup"
breasts may weigh three to four pounds, dependent on band and cup size. One of
the principal functions of a bra is to elevate and "support" the
breasts, that is, to raise them from their normal position lying against the
chest wall. The bra's shoulder strap should bear little weight. This is
considered the defining characteristic of the bra: supporting the weight from
the back and shoulders, as opposed to lift from below (as corsets do). Over-reliance
on the platform (back strap) for support will lead to undue compression of the breasts;
so much of the weight tends to be carried by the shoulder strap, particularly
for larger breasts. The major engineering weakness of the bra is that it acts
as a pulley, transferring the weight of the breast from the lower chest wall to
higher structures such as the back, shoulder, neck, and head. This can result
in pain and injury in those structures, especially for women with pendulous
breasts.
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